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i^EARL RIYER HAEBOB 
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157 45 



3 Mokapu Pt. 




ECLECTIC SCHOOL READINGS 

ALICE'S VISIT 

TO 

THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 



BY 



MARY H. KROUT 

AUTHOR OF "HAWAII AND A REVOLUTION," "A LOOKER-ON 
IN LONDON," ETC. 



o^o 



NEW YORK :• CINCINNATI:. CHICAGO 
AMERICAN BOOK COMPANY 



V, 



TWO COPIES H fie El VED, 

-SECONQ-CQEYl Library of Coogrt|% 

Office of tilt 

MAV241900 

keglster of Copyrlgfeffj 



65333 • 

Copyright, 1900, by 
AMERICAN BOOK COMPANY. 

j KROUT'S HAWAII. 

\V. P. I 



A 



PREFACE 

Since the Hawaiian Islands have now become a part 
of the United States, and henceforth their history will 
be a part of our own, it is important that the children 
in our schools should learn something of the geography 
of these islands, and of the manners, customs, and 
history of the people who inhabit them. 

In writing this imaginary journey to the Hawaiian 
Islands I have described the country and the people as 
they were studied by me during two actual visits. The 
volcano of Kilauea was at the time of my visit in a state 
of great activity, and the account which I have given of 
the wonderful spectacle was prepared from notes writ- 
ten within sight of the crater. 

The history of the Hawaiian Islands, though re- 
stricted as to scene of action, has been as stirring and 
as dramatic as our own. Within a century the islands 
were conquered and brought under one government, 
during which time the race advanced steadily from 
barbarism to civilization. 

The people are now to undertake that last and 
greatest of political experiments, self-government, for 
which their alliance with the United States during the 
past fifty years has been an excellent preparation, 

7 



8 

The study of Hawaiian evolution affords such a 
variety of incident that it is somewhat difficult to decide, 
in the preparation of a book for children, what to reject 
and what to utilize. It is necessary, on the one hand, 
to consider the importance of customs in shaping the 
destiny of the people, and, on the other hand, to bear in 
mind the consequence of filling the impressionable 
minds of children with painful images and with facts 
that they cannot reconcile with justice. 

What has been said of the influence of the American 
missionaries, as the first educators and lawmakers 
among the Hawaiians, is simply a statement of facts 
which may be corroborated by reference to the archives 
of the country. 

Among books that have been especially helpful in 
the preparation of this work have been J. J. Jarves's 
" Hawaiian or Sandwich Islands," W. D. Alexander's 
" A Brief History of the Hawaiian People," Mrs. Judd's 
"Honolulu," Mrs. Isabella Bird Bishop's "Six Months 
in the Sandwich Islands," and "The Hawaiian Annual." 

M. H. K. 



CONTENTS 



I. The Voyage . 

II. Honolulu 

III. The Drive to Waikiki 

IV. Grass Houses 
V. Hawaiian Customs 

VI. The Pali 

VII. The Visit to Hilo 

VIII. The Road to the Volcano 

IX. In the Crater 

X. The Story of Kapiolaxi 

XI. The Feast . 

XII. A Sugar Plantation . 

XIII. Maui .... 

XIV. The Story of Captain Cook 
XV. Kauai and the Koula Falls 

XVI. An Interesting Scotch Family 

XVII. The Market . 

XVIII. Sandalwood . 

XIX. Insects .... 

XX. Captain Vancouver 

XXI. The First Missionaries 

XXII. More about the Missionaries 

9 



18 
29 
38 
44 
49 
55 
60 

69 
76 

79 
83 
90 

96 
103 
109 
11 1 

115 
118 
1 22 
124 
129 



10 



XXIII. 

XXIV. 
XXV. 

XXVI. 

XXVII. 

XXVIII. 

XXIX. 
XXX. 

XXXI. 

XXXII. 
XXXIII. 
XXXIV. 

XXXV. 



The Old Mission House . 

The Story of Boki and Liliha 

" The Life of the Land " . 

Mrs. Judd .... 

molokai and the lepers 

Father Damien . 

A Visit to Father Damien 

Iolani Palace . 

Kapiolani .... 

An Ostrich Farm 

Hawaiian Schools 

The Chinese and their Schools 

Good-by 



Pronunciation of Hawaiian Names and Terms 



135 
142 

H5 
I5 1 
156 

163 
167 
172 
180 
186 
191 
197 
202 

207 



ALICE'S VISIT TO THE HAWAIIAN 
ISLANDS 



o^o 



I. THE VOYAGE 

IF, at the time when this story begins, some one had 
come to Alice Earle and offered to fulfill her dearest 
wish, she would have asked, without a moment's hesita- 
tion, for a trip to Ha-wai^-i. For there was nothing in the 
world she liked better than traveling, and lately she had 
heard so much about Hawaii that this was now the place 
of all places she most longed to see. Imagine her de- 
light, then, when she was told that her parents had de- 
cided to take her with them on a visit to the Ha-wai'ian 
Islands. 

Alice was a clever little girl, who knew much more about 
geography than most children of her age. She was fond 
of searching for strange cities and countries on the maps 
in her father's library. She had been told that the 
Hawaiian Islands lie almost in the middle of the great 
Pacific Ocean, and, after a careful search, she found them 
on the map, — a cluster of tiny specks not so large as the 
letters of their name. The specks were so very small that 
it was hard for her to realize that Hawaii, the island for 
which the group was named, is as large as the state of 
Connecticut, and that upon another island of the group, 

ii 



12 

O-a'hu, there is a city called Hon-o-lu'lu, which has 
over twenty thousand inhabitants. 

Her father told her that the group consists of eight 
large islands, besides several barren rocks. These eight 
islands are covered with forests and plantations — great 
cultivated tracts of land upon which sugar cane is 
raised. Upon all there are high mountain ridges, with 




Copyright, 1899, oy C C. Lang ill. 

Eruption of Mauna Loa in 1899 



peaks that are, or have been, volcanoes. Volcanoes are 
mountains having near their top an opening in the 
earth through which heated materials issue forth — 
streams of melted rock or lava, ashes, mud, water, 
steam, and gases. A part of each island, at some 
time, has been buried under this lava, which hardens 
as it cools, and upon which very few plants can grow. 

On Hawaii, the largest island, two of the mountains, 
Mau'na Ke'a and Mau'na Lo'a, are nearly fourteen 



J 3 

thousand feet high, and their tops* are covered with 
snow that never melts. 

Alice lived in Chicago, and she was to start on her 
long journey on the first of February. It was very cold, 
and the ground was covered with snow and ice. It 
seemed strange to see her mother putting into the trunk 
the thin gowns which she wore only in the summer; but 




Interior of a Pullma 



she was told that in the Hawaiian Islands it is never 
cold except high up on the mountains, and that most 
of the time she would have to wear her light muslin 
gowns. 

Once Alice had crossed the Atlantic Ocean on her 
way to England with her mother and father, and now 
as they took their seats in the Pullman car, for the long 
ride from Chicago to California, she had the same feel- 
ing of excitement. 



14 

They left Chicago at night, and when Alice awoke in 
the morning they were crossing a lofty bridge over the 
Mississippi, which was the broadest river Alice had ever 
seen. She was much interested in the pretty towns and 
villages in Iowa, w T ith their rich farms and comfortable 
houses. At Council Bluffs there was another bridge, 
over the Missouri River. There are many bluffs upon 
the shores of this river, and on one of them the Indian 
tribes long ago held their meetings which gave the city, 
Council Bluffs, its name. 

By the time they reached the borders of Iowa they 
had left the snow behind them, and as they went farther 
and farther west, Alice expected to see the steep summits 
of the Rocky Mountains, which she knew they were to 
ascend. This, she thought, would be no easy task for a 
long train of cars ; but as yet the plains stretched about 
them on every side, apparently level and unbroken. 
She did not know that they were mounting higher and 
higher every moment, and but for an immense stone 
which had been placed to mark the highest point, 
she would never have known when they reached the 
top. 

As they passed over the Sierra Nevada mountains 
Alice saw the snow piled many feet high along the 
tracks. But when early the next morning she lifted the 
curtain and looked out, it seemed as though spring had 
come upon them during the night, for they were de- 
scending into the green Sacramento valley, with its 
vineyards and almond orchards. The trees in all their 
glory of pink blossoms were beautiful to behold. 

At Oakland they left the train and crossed the bay to 



is 

San Francisco. The next day they went on board a 
ship called the Mariposa, a Spanish word meaning 
" Butterfly." 

There were a great many people on the decks, some 
about to sail, and others who had come to see them off. 
Some of the passengers were going out to New Zealand 
and Australia, far beyond the Hawaiian Islands. 

Presently a little Japanese steward beat the gong, the 
visitors went ashore, and in a few moments the ship 




The Golden Gate 



began to move slowly from the dock out into the harbor 
and toward the Golden Gate. Alice had heard a great 
deal about the Golden Gate ; she was a little surprised 
to find that it was not a real gate, but two high cliffs 
that rose opposite each other at the narrow entrance of 
the bay. The ocean was just outside, and it was dan- 
gerous for ships to venture through the narrow opening 
except in broad daylight. Upon the ocean the water 
was much rougher than upon the bay, where the high. 



i6 

steep shores afforded shelter from the wind ; and the 
Mariposa rolled and tossed about upon the waves. 

Although it was winter, it was quite warm, and Alice 
and her parents were able to stay upon the deck from 
the moment the ship left the dock. 

As they sailed toward the south, it grew warmer every 
day, and Alice was soon glad to take off her heavy serge 
dress and put on a little linen frock. She liked the 
Pacific Ocean much better than the Atlantic. 

When she went to England she sailed from New York 
in July, but as soon as she was out of sight of land it 
grew cold and the sea became very rough. There was 
much fog and rain, and she had scarcely a glimpse of 
the sun until the shores of Ireland were in sight. The 
air of the Pacific, on the other hand, was as warm and 
soft in February as in June. 

For the first few davs great flocks of snow-white sea 
gulls followed the ship ; then thev disappeared, and 
numbers of brown gulls circled about the vessel, diving 
and struggling for the food tossed overboard by the 

passengers. These 
birds came out to 
meet the ship, and 
~^s&Siii§i% 3F flew about it all the 





s. \- n-^ -.-- : v5> way to Honolulu. 

& '.!==- Once in a while 

: ~^^^ Alice saw, a long 
distance off, a dark 
wavy line, show- 
ing just above the water, out of which rose a slender 
stream like a fountain ; this was caused by a whale 



Flying Fish 



17 

spouting water high into the air through its nostrils. 
But the flying fish were the most interesting of all. 
They rose from the dark blue waves like little flocks of 
snow-white birds. They did not really fly, but leaped 
out of the water with great force and were borne along 
by their wet fins, which served as sails. 

When the voyage was nearly at an end, Mr. Earle 
pointed out a beautiful bird which he said the sailors 
call the " boatswain bird." It is pure white, with two 
long feathers in the tail like graceful streamers. It 
builds its nest and rears its young in high cliffs upon 
the land, and its wings are so strong that it can fly far 
out to sea in search of food. 

It rained very often as the vessel approached the 
Hawaiian Islands, but the w r arm, bright showers were 
soon over. Sometimes Alice could see two or three 
black clouds just above the sky, out of which the rain 
was streaming in long, slanting lines. The clouds were 
really many miles apart, so that while it was raining in 
one place, the sun was shining in another. With these 
frequent showers there were to be seen beautiful rain- 
bows. They were of brilliant hues, red, yellow, green, 
blue, and violet, each color separate and distinct, and 
the perfect arch seemed to spring from the sea. The 
islands are so noted for their beautiful rainbows that the 
natives called them " The Islands of Rainbows." 

The first land that was sighted was the island of 
Mo-lo-kai'. It looked, in the distance, like a huge tor- 
toise resting on the water. Upon this island many poor 
people are confined who are ill with a terrible disease, 
called leprosy, which can never be cured. They are 

KROll's HAWAII — 2 



sent away from their homes on the other islands, so 
that their friends and relatives may not be in danger of 
catching the disease from them and becoming lepers 
like themselves. 

Oahu appeared still farther away. The coast was 
very bare and rugged, seamed and rent into chasms, 
and reddened by fierce fires, ages before, when the 
island had been violently thrown up from the bed of 
the ocean. 

Upon a high, rounded crag called Ko'ko Head, there 
was a telephone station. When ships are first seen 
far out at sea, the news is immediately telephoned to 
Honolulu, and it is soon known that the ship has arrived 
in safety and that the voyage is over. 



oXKo 



II. HONOLULU 

JUST outside the harbor of Honolulu a pilot came 
in a little boat to meet the steamer and guide it 
among the rocks and shallow places to the dock. 

A number of dark-skinned men rowed the pilot's 
boat with great ease and skill. These were Hawaiians, 
the race of people born in the Islands, whose ances- 
tors lived there, long before Hawaii was known to 
Americans or Europeans. They wore blue or white 
cotton clothing ; and around their necks and hats were 
hung thick wreaths of flowers, which they called leHs. 
When they reached the ship, a rope ladder was let 



19 

down over the side, and up this the pilot climbed and 
leaped on deck. 

All on board were glad to see him and they asked 
him a great many questions, for they had been at sea 
for eight days during which time they had heard no 
news from the land. 

A little later two other men were taken on board, — 
the customs officer and the health officer. It is the 




Harbor of Honolulu 



business of the health officer to see that everybody 
on the ship is well. Had there been any contagious 
disease among the passengers, the ship would have 
been anchored out in the harbor near an island called 
the quarantine station, until the sick people were well, 
and there was no danger to those on the shore. This 
is very necessary in Honolulu, for the Hawaiians catch 
contagious diseases very easily, and great numbers oJ 
them die. 



20 

Sometimes the ship is not even allowed to stop at 
the quarantine station, and none of the passengers can 
go ashore except those whose homes are in the Islands. 
Even they must stay at the quarantine station until 
the health officer is certain that they are quite well, 
and free from contagion. 

The customs officer gave Mr. Earle a long sheet of 
paper containing a great many questions about his age, 
his business, the country in which he was born, and his 
family. He was also asked if he had brought in his 
trunk any articles on which the government had laid 
a tax, called duty. Alice remembered that similar ques- 
tions had been asked them in Liverpool, when they 
went to England, and in Calais, when they went across 
to France. In Honolulu, as in Liverpool, in Calais, and 
in New York, the trunks had to be unlocked so that the 
officers might see what they contained. 

Alice thought that she had never seen anything more 
beautiful than the harbor. The w r ater was bluer even 
than the ocean, and there was not a ripple upon its 
smooth surface, which was crossed with bands of pink, 
brown, and yellow. There was a long line of ships 
along the dock. The captain said that once this 
line of ships had extended along the shore for more 
than a mile, "and that they lay so close together that 
a man could step from one deck to another. They 
were sailing vessels that had come out from New 
England to catch whales, which were to be found in 
great numbers in the ocean south of the Hawaiian 
Islands. 

The beach for several miles beyond the city curved 



21 



like a crescent along the sea, bordered all the way by 
groves of cocoa palms. These trees were slender and 
tall, with smooth trunks and leaves growing in the top 
like plumes, and they were all bent and twisted by 




Cocoa Palms 



the winds. Here and there among the groves Alice 
could see fine houses, quite close to the beach. In 
the city, also, there were a great many trees, and the 
breeze from the land was as fragrant as though it had 
blown across a garden full of flowers. 



22 



As the ship moved slowly up to the dock, numbers of 
brown, black-eyed Hawaiian boys swam around the 
bows and dived for the coins which the passengers 
threw overboard. The w r ater w r as so clear that the 
bright coins could be seen distinctly to a great depth. 

When Alice saw the crowds of people on the dock 
where she w r ent ashore, it was hard to realize that it 

w r as winter. She 
knew 7 that in Chi- 
cago the ground 
must still be cov- 
ered with snow. 
Here, in Hono- 
lulu, everybody 
was dressed in 
white, the women 
and children in 
pretty muslins, and 
the men in w T hite 
linen *coats and 
trousers, such as 
are worn in all 
warm countries. 
The white people 
waiting for their friends to come ashore were mainly 
Americans. The Hawaiian s resembled those who had 
rowed the health officer's boat ; they had dark skin, 
dark straight hair, black eyes, and good features. They 
spoke a strange, musical language which, of course, 
Alice could not understand, and they cried to each 
other, "A-/o f ha f Aloha." This is the Hawaiian expres- 




lype of Hawaiian Woman 



23 

sion for "my love to you," and is used by the natives 
both when they meet and when they part. 

The women wore odd gowns with yokes and long, 
full skirts. These were called ho-lo'k?is. It was the 
dress that was designed for them by the first white 
women who went out to the Islands from New England, 
and which they learned to wear instead of the long 
mantles which they themselves knew how to make. 
The holokus were almost all white, but a few were 
black, brown, and red". The women, like the men, wore 
thick wreaths of white, yellow, and scarlet flowers round 
their hats, and about their necks. Alice thought this 
a very pretty custom. 

After they left the ship the Earles were driven at 
once to the hotel. The streets were crooked and nar- 
row, but far cleaner than the streets of many cities in 
America. 

Alice had supposed that Honolulu was so far 
away that one could not buy anything there that one 
might need, but she saw that the shops were very 
good. She noticed, too, that ladies who were shop- 
ping sat in their carriages, while the articles they 
wanted were brought out to them, which seemed very 
convenient. 

The men and women passing to and fro, walking- 
leisurely, with none of the hurry and bustle to which 
Alice was accustomed, were more interesting and amus- 
ing than any people she had ever seen. Among them 
were a great many Chinese, Japanese, and Portuguese, 
as well as sailors from German, English, Japanese, and 
American cruisers. 



24 • 

Alice thought that the Hawaiian women who were 
selling flowers were the oddest of all. They were 
dressed in calico holokus. The flowers were in bas- 
kets or were made up into stiff bouquets, or into leis, 
many of which were worn by the venders themselves. 




Flower Women 



They had brought with them food, and some of them 
had pet dogs and little pigs. They sat in rows upon 
mats stretched along the sidewalk, out of the way of the 
passers-by. 

The hotel had shady balconies above and below, and 
the grounds were filled with ferns and palms, and many 
strange, beautiful plants and trees which Alice had 



25 

never seen before. The grass all over was very thick 
and green. One plant, with a large, thick leaf of 
brightest green, was the banana, A tree with fine, 
feathery leaves was the algaroba, and still another, 
with great spreading branches, was the umbrella tree, 
which Alice thought well named. Over one algaroba 
tree ran a vine that almost covered the boughs with 





Punchbowl 



masses of crimson flowers, and upon the lawn were beds 
of lilies and heliotrope. 

From the veranda, at the back of the hotel, could 
be seen a low mountain with a jagged circular top that 
looked as if the peak had been torn off. This was 
Punch'bowl. It had once been a volcano, but the fire 
had died out ages before, and it was covered, within 
and without, with thick grass and shrubs. 

There were other tall peaks which Alice learned to 



26 



distinguish as Round Top and Tan'ta-lus. These were 
also covered with grass to the very top, and mist and 
clouds floated around them like a thin white veil. 
There were a great many kinds of people in the hotel, 
as well as in the streets, — Chinese, Japanese, Hawai- 
ians, Americans, and a few Europeans who were trav- 
eling through the 
Islands. 

For luncheon Alice 
had some ripe, sweet 
strawberries, which 
grow in the Hawaiian 
Islands all the year 
round. She also had 
cocoanuts which were 
not like any that she 
had ever eaten be- 
fore ; they were not 
quite ripe, and the 
meat was soft, like 
jelly, and had to be 
eaten with a spoon. 
Each nut contained a quart of clear fluid that looked 
like water, but had a delicious sour flavor, not at all 
like the white milk that Alice had poured from cocoa- 
nuts at home. 

Another strange fruit was the guava, with its pink, 
fleshy meat full of hard seeds. Alice had eaten guava 
jelly, and she thought it much better than the ripe fruit 
from which it was made. 

The coffee — Ko'na coffee — also grew in the Islands 




Taro Plant 



27 




It was rich and strong, and could not be bought any- 
where else, as the people raised only enough for their 
own use. 

Hundreds of young Kona trees have, however, been 
set out on the new plantations, and some day Kona 
coffee will be sent to the United States. 

In the morning Alice breakfasted on some small, 
delicious fish called mullets that had been brought from 
large fish ponds a few 
miles out of Honolulu. 
There was also poH, a 
porridge of which the 
Hawaiians are very 
fond. Many of them 
eat scarcely any other 
food. 

Poi is made from 
the root of a large- 
leaved plant, the ta'ro, 
which is boiled until it 
is quite soft, and then 
kneaded into a sticky 
paste. In ancient 
times the poi was 
pounded in a large 
wooden tray with a 
stone pestle and was 
then steamed in an underground oven with heated stones. 
Hawaiians who eat too much of it grow very fat. 

It is of a pinkish gray color and somewhat sour. 
When the Hawaiians eat poi they pour it into a cala- 







Calabashes 



28 



bash, a deep wooden bowl, which in former days consti- 
tuted the chief article of furniture in Hawaiian homes. 
All the family gather around it, sitting on the floor or on 
the ground. Each person dips his finger into the poi, 
rolls a portion of it into a little ball on the tip of his 




A Hawaiian Hotel 

finger and quickly tosses it into his mouth. To spill 
any of the porridge is considered unmannerly. 

The dining room was large and airy, and through 
the open windows Alice saw the waving boughs of the 
palms, and heard the chattering of birds. It was like 
fairyland, and she felt that she could be happy in 
Honolulu all her life, and that she should never care 
to go back to a country with frost and snow, where the 
flowers do not bloom the whole vear round. 



2 9 



III. THE DRIVE TO WAIKIKI 




ALICE was awakened the 
next morning by the loud 
chattering of birds in the mango 
trees. She arose and peeped 
out to see them swinging on 
the boughs and hopping about 
the lawn. They were not like 
any birds that she had ever seen 
before, though they looked 
a little like robins. They 
were larger than robins, but 
almost of the same color, ex- 
cept about the neck, where 
the feathers were a greenish 
gold. They had long yellow 
legs, and a yellow rim around 
the eye, and they moved about 
very quickly among the trees. 
Alice's father said they were 
mynahs, and that they had been 
brought from India to Hawaii. 

Mynahs are saucy, mischievous birds, and seem to 
be afraid of nothing. They are very thievish, and steal 
any bit of lace or wool or ribbon that is left in their way 




Mynahs 



30 

While Alice was in Honolulu she heard a great many- 
stories about the mynahs. One of her little playmates 
was collecting postage stamps for her album. A my- 
nah's nest was shaken out of a tree by the wind, and 
when the little girl ran to pick it up she found two rare 
stamps neatly pieced into the side of the nest. They 
made a bright bit of color, and the iriynah, no doubt, 
had stolen them from some veranda or window sill, 
where the careless owner had left them. 

A gentleman told Alice another interesting story 
about the mynahs. In an unused building on his land 
there was a room that had been closed for a long time. 
One day he unlocked the door and found in the middle 
of the floor a great heap of rubbish, — small twigs, 
grass, paper, string, and pieces of cloth. Looking 
about, he saw a small hole in the ceiling, through which, 
he at once concluded, the mynahs had carried the rub- 
bish into the room, thinking, no doubt, that it would 
never be discovered. 

After breakfast the Earles went for a drive to Wai- 
ki'ki. This is a suburb, lying along the beach, which 
they had seen from the deck of the ship. The road is 
solid and smooth, running for several miles quite close 
to the sea. A wall of stone has been built to prevent 
the waves from washing across the road. On one side 
are high mountains, with the cool green valleys at their 
base. On the other side lies the sea, deep and blue and 
very still along the beach. Farther out there are rough 
waves that come swiftly rolling in, till, striking against a 
coral reef, they toss their white spray high up into the air. 

These reefs, or sunken ledges of coral, are composed 



3i 

of the skeletons of thousands of little animals called 
coral polyps. The coral polyps live only under the 
water, and die when they come to the surface. The 
reefs they build up are often several miles broad and 
sometimes extend for hundreds of miles along the coast. 
The water between the reef and the shore is called a 
lagoon, and here, even in storms, it is safe to row or 
swim. Outside the reef the sea swarms with sharks, 
big savage fish, which, whenever they can catch them, 
eat the swimmers who venture out beyond the reef. 
This does not happen very often, as the Hawaiians are 
the most wonderful swimmers in the world, and are 
not much afraid of the sharks, which they attack with 
great courage. 

Almost all the Hawaiians that Alice met, walking or 
riding, — even the men who were cleaning the streets, — 
wore wreaths of flowers. Their horses were poor and 
wretched, for although there are a great many pastures, 
the grass is not fattening. 

Alice had never before seen women ride like the 
Hawaiian women. They wear holokus, but sit astride 
their horses like men. 

In the old days their riding dresses were of very gay 
colors, — blue, pink, yellow, green, and crimson ; they 
were long and flowing, and, as the women galloped 
through the streets, these gowns streamed out on either 
side like wings, making, with their wreaths of flowers, 
a very pretty picture. 

All the people whom Alice passed were good-natured 
and polite ; they bowed and smiled, waved their hands, 
and said, " Aloha." 



32 

As they, passed along, Alice would now and then see 
horses standing in the ponds with heads bent until the 
water almost reached their eyes. She wondered at this 
till she was told that the horses were eating a weed 
that grows at the bottom of the ponds. She often 
stopped and laughed to see the saucy mynahs perched 




Women Riding 

on the backs of pigs and cows that went about their 
way quite unconcerned. 

On the edge of the city there were numbers of Chi- 
nese shops, with little children standing in the doorway. 
Alice saw many other Chinese children on their way 
to school. They looked clean and happy. The little 
boys and girls were dressed very much alike. They 



33 

wore wide trousers, with long, loose jackets of dark blue. 
Some of them were barefooted and wore around one 
ankle a band of brass, or jade, a green stone much 
admired by the Chinese. Some wore little close-fitting 
caps, while others were bareheaded, with their black 




Cocoanut Tree 



hair combed very smoothly and braided in a long braid 
or cue, which hung down the back or was thrown 
daintily across one arm. Sometimes the cue was length- 
ened with pink cord braided in with the hair. 

Alice passed several cocoanut groves. For the first 
time, she saw the cocoanuts growing. They grow 

KROUT'S HAWAII — -3 



34 

together, many in a bunch, among the boughs in the top 
of the tree. The trunks, which lean in many directions, 
are easy to climb. This, the rats soon discover, and 
sometimes they make their nests among the cocoanuts, 
that they may have their food close at hand. It is easy 
for them to gnaw through the yellowish husk and the 
shell, and eat the soft meat, and drink the milk, of 
which the young rats, also, are very fond. 

Passing the gardens of the Chinese, Alice found them 
neat and well tilled. They were laid out in beds, around 
each of which was a narrow canal. In the beds vegeta- 
bles and bananas were growing. Under the shade of 
the bananas ducks hatched their broods, which swam 
up and down the little canals. 

The Chinese and Japanese eat a great many ducks. 
The men who work on the plantations would be disap- 
pointed if they did not get a dried duck for their Sun- 
day dinner. They hatch a great many of the eggs 
by burying them in oat chaff. The young ducks are 
kept to themselves in little yards inclosed in wire net. 
When the "duckery " lies upon the bank of. a stream 
the young ducks are kept apart in the same way on 
the water, for they could not always defend themselves 
against the stronger ducks. 

Before the Chinese came to Honolulu it w T as very 
hard to get fresh vegetables. The Hawaiians are by 
nature lazy and not used to hard work, and the white 
men could not endure the heat of the sun. When 
the Chinese came they bought the wet, swampy land 
near the city, which was thought worthless. They 
drained and plowed it, and soon had fine gardens 



35 

where before nothing had grown but grass and weeds. 
They raised melons and corn, tomatoes, peas, and 
cucumbers, and almost everything that we can buy 
in our own markets. 

After Mr. Earle had driven some distance, he left 
the road, and turned in at the entrance of Ka-pi-o-la'ni 




Kapiolani Park 



Park. This park was named for the wife of King 
Ka-la-kau'a. It was filled with beautiful ferns and 
palms and flowering plants, and there were canals 
everywhere, winding in and out among little grassy 
islands. 

The houses were set back from the road in the midst 
of lawns and widespreading trees, and many of them 



36 

had no chimneys. This was because it was. seldom 
cool enough to need a fire. Fires were kindled only in 
the kitchens or " cook-houses," which stood apart, often 
some distance from the house in which the family lived, 
just as Alice had seen them in the Southern states, 
where she often visited her relatives. The grounds 
about the houses were surrounded by stone walls or 




Diamond Head 



high wooden palings, but the gates always stood open, 
so that people could walk in and out as they liked. 
There were very few weeds in the fields or in the gar- 
dens, and even along the roadside the grass was thick 
and fine. 

They now drove through a grove of algaroba trees, 
quite close to the foot of Diamond Head, the tall 
cliff rising above Waikiki. Alice's father said that 
the algaroba, like most of the trees they had seen, did 
not grow upon the Islands when white men first came 



37 

there to live, but had been brought from other coun- 
tries by French missionaries. The fine, feathery leaves 
make a thick shade, the wood is used for fuel, and 
the long seed pods make good fodder for the cattle. 

Alice had seen two churches in her drive, one of 
coral, cut in blocks, and the other of wood. The coral 




A Hawaiian Church 



church was built by the missionaries from blocks of 
coral brought by their Hawaiian friends as gifts. This 
was the church attended by the king and queen, who 
sat in the rear, in seats much higher than the other 
pews, to show that they were of higher rank. 

The little wooden church was old and weatherbeaten, 



38 

In the churchyard surrounding it were many graves, 
among which sat several Hawaiian women. After the 
death of friends and relatives, it was their custom to 
spend many days at a time in the churchyard, and 
there they sewed and wove fans and mats, and even 
cooked and ate their food. Before they were taught 
better by the missionaries, they used to bury their 
dead near the door or under the floor of their huts. 
Mothers would often put their children to death as 
soon as they were born, and adopt the children of 
their friends and neighbors. Alice was glad to know 
that such cruel things were now no longer done. 



o**o 



IV. GRASS HOUSES 

MR. and Mrs. Earle found the people of Honolulu 
very kind and hospitable. To some of them they 
had brought letters of introduction from friends at 
home, and these people came at once to call on them, 
or to invite them to dine and to drive. 

The week after they arrived they were all invited to 
Wai-me'a, a pretty place ten or twelve miles from the 
city, on Pearl Harbor. This was a little inlet of the 
sea which King Kalakaua had given the United States 
permission to use for a coaling station — a place where 
large supplies of coal are brought and stored for the 
use of ships that pass there on their way back and 
forth across the sea. Such stations are necessary be- 
cause the furnaces by which the boilers are heated 



39 

consume several thousand bushels of coal every day, 
and most ships could not carry enough to last during a 
voyage of three or four weeks. 

It was a beautiful morning, and they drove to the 
little station of the only railway on the island of Oahu, 
which runs from Honolulu to the principal towns of 





fejg§& 




■ ^ff! 




^'W : ;' 


fez- % 


■•;_. '"^M 






M r> - 


ffffTj 








;, 


•v-il 


ii i 


Fl; . jjntf' 


f i 


Si fin 




Ufr . 


• -^&si 






1 


I w*& 


&».fe* 


w ■ 


' ' 'l^- 1 ~ 




' 1 




j^i^ 


jjj. ..J 






' - 1 




- 


gfeggl 






■"'''. 


;; j;«J 







An Hawaiian Avenue 



Oahu, and to the large sugar plantations on the island. 
This is a great convenience to people living on the plan- 
tations. One car was filled with Hawaiian men and 
women. 

From the station they walked to the house of their 
friend, Mr. Danvers, whom they were to visit. Alice 
had never before seen a house like this. It was 



40 

called a bungalow. The roof sloped from the center, 
broadening toward the eaves. It was one story high, 
and there were wide verandas all round it, furnished 
with hammocks and with wicker tables and chairs. 
While they rested, three or four young Hawaiian girls 




Oahu Railway 



played very prettily upon a little instrument something 
like a mandolin, and sung some wild and mournful 
Hawaiian songs. After luncheon they walked about 
the grounds under the shade of the algaroba trees. 

Mr. Danvers wished them to see his grass houses 
which had been made by a Hawaiian, nearly eighty 



4i 

years of age. These huts were like those in which the 
people had lived before they learned to build houses of 
wood and brick, and none of the younger Hawaiians 
knew how to make them. Either they had never been 
taught, or they had forgotten. The grass houses were 
oblong, with steep, sloping roofs, the grass being fas- 




Native Grass House 



tened to a framework of light poles. The frame was tied 
together with strings made of the fiber of plants, for the 
Hawaiians formerly had no nails. The roof was thatched 
with securely fastened layers of grass which the rain 
could not penetrate. The covering of the ends and 
sides was interwoven and braided like a mat ; but it was 
many inches in thickness. This made the grass house 



42 

cool when the weather was warm, and warm when the 
days were rainy and chilly. There were no windows, 
and but one door, so low that Mr. Earle could not enter 
the house without stooping. 

Mr. Danvers had furnished one of the grass houses 
in imitation of those formerly occupied by Hawaiian 
families of high rank. The hut consisted of a single 
room, the floor of which was of earth beaten smooth 
and hard, and covered with fine white mats of woven 
grass. At one end a low platform, several yards in 
width, extended across the hut, and here the family and 
their visitors slept. 

The bed w^as of rushes spread with mats, and the 
round hard bolster was also covered with matting, which 
seemed to Alice rather uncomfortable. The bedclothes 
were not of cotton or woolen material, but of a kind q/ 
paper, called ta'pa, very much like the paper used in 
paper napkins. Some of this tapa was soft and thin 
and silky, while the rest was thicker and coarser. 

Mr. Danvers explained that the tapa is made from 
the inner bark of the paper mulberry tree, which is 
beaten in water with heavy mallets, until it is crushed 
into a soft mass. It is then fashioned into strips of 
the thickness required, and the strips are overlapped at 
the edges and beaten together so neatly and smoothly 
that the seam can hardly be noticed. The clothing of 
the Hawaiians in the old times was also made of tapa. 
The tapa, at first a grayish white, is colored with dyes 
made of plants and minerals, purple, pink, green, and 
brown, and decorated in pretty patterns of straight or 
waving lines. 



43 

The furniture of the house consisted of a few stools 
and calabashes, the wooden bowls for holding food and 
water. The calabashes were made of a fine, hard- 
grained wood either of ko'a or of ko'u, which was bril- 
liantly polished. These calabashes had been shaped 
with stone tools, for the Hawaiians had no tools of iron 
or steel, until after the white men came to the Islands. 

The Hawaiian women made the tapa, and wove the 
mats for the floors and beds, besides cooking the food. 

The candle was certainly the oddest that Alice had 
ever seen; the kernels of a small nut had been strung 
on a splinter of bamboo, and the nut at the end of the 
string was lighted and burned several minutes ; then 
the second caught fire and so on until all were burned. 
The nuts were gathered from the ku-ku 7, or candle nut 
tree which grows everywhere on the mountain sides, 
and which can easily be recognized by its pale gray- 
green leaves among the darker foliage. 

Some of the richer Hawaiians used lamps of stone, in 
which fish oil was burned. The Hawaiians used to fear 
darkness, being much afraid of ghosts and evil spirits. 
It was long before the missionaries could convince them 
that such spirits do not exist, and that the nighttime is 
just as safe as the day. 



r 




44 



V. HAWAIIAN CUSTOMS 

WHEN the party returned to the comfortable ve- 
randa of the bungalow, Mr. Danvers, who had 

been born and bred among the natives, told them a 
great many interesting tales about the old Hawaiians. 




Fishing with a Spear 



Alice learned that besides poi and fruit they also ate 
a great deal of fish, and that the fishermen were very 
clever in the use of spears and nets, with which the fish 
were caught. When the Islands became so crowded 
with people that food grew scarce, the chiefs gave to 



45 

each family a small plat of ground in which they 
planted the taro for their poi. These little gardens 
were surrounded by low stone walls. 

When the supply of fish began to fail, the great fish 
ponds were dug, filled with water, and stocked with 
mullet. These ponds lay in a narrow valley between 




Fishing with a Net 

two low mountain peaks, which could be seen from Mr. 
Danvers's veranda. 

In fishing at sea, the nets were let down to a very 
great depth, and thousands of fish were taken at once, 
so that after a while they became very scarce. 

All the best food was kept for the chiefs ; to men of 
lower rank it was forbidden by law. Any breaking of 
this law was punished by death. 



46 



A very troublesome custom invented by the priests 

and chiefs was the tabu. This was a rule forbidding 

the people to do certain things, to eat certain kinds of 

food, to wash at certain seasons, forbidding them at 

times even to attend the sick or 

bury the dead. All food set apart 

t\ I || j | for the priests and chiefs was said 

|ii ijll- 1 to be tabu. A little girl once 

had her eyes put out for eating 

a banana, a fruit reserved for men 

of high rank. She would have 

been put to death, had she not 

been the daughter of a chief. 

Whenever the priests performed 
solemn religious ceremonies, a gen- 
eral tabu was declared. Then no 
one could walk about, or speak, or 
make a sound ; the fowls and dogs 
and pigs were shut up in the dark, 
that they might think it was night, 
and keep quiet. This silence lasted 
from sunrise until sunset, and if 
even a dog barked, or a hen cackled, 
the tabu was violated, and the whole 
ceremony had to be performed over. 
The people found the tabu so un- 
comfortable that they kept very still, in order to get 
through with it as soon as possible. 

The idols, which the priests carried in battle, and in 
times of peace kept in little temples or sacred houses, 
were very hideous. 




Old Idol 



47 

The people worshiped four chief gods. One they 
thought dwelt in the savage shark, another in the vol- 
cano, a third in the earth, and a fourth in the air. 

Men and women never ate at the same table. Parents 
loved their sons far better than their daughters. When 
a boy was five years old, if he was of high rank, he 
was allowed to eat pork and bananas, and thereafter he 
never again sat at table with his mother or sisters. 

The Hawaiians made little sledges with curved, 
polished runners and coasted down the grassy hill- 
sides. They also played at bowls and threw spears 
at a target; and the chiefs were fond of shooting mice 
with bows and arrows, — a sport in which no one else 
could engage. They ran races and wrestled ; and in 
their boxing matches struck such heavy blows that 
men were frequently killed. 

The most popular of all their pastimes was swim- 
ming. They used a very long, narrow board, with 
which men, women, and even children swam out to 
sea until they met a huge wave, when they threw 
themselves upon the swimming board and were borne 
swiftly to the shore. They were so skillful in this 
dangerous amusement that they were rarely hurt or 
drowned. They were also very fearless in leaping over 
high waterfalls, into the deep pools below. Indeed, 
they spent so much time in the streams and the sea, 
that they were almost as much at home in the water 
as on the land. 

Few of the Hawaiians of to-day would venture to 
leap over even a small waterfall, and they rarely use 
their swimming boards. 



4 8 



Whenever the Hawaiians were sick, they believed 
either that they had been bewitched, or else, by fail- 
ure to visit the sacred houses and offer gifts to the 
priests, had offended some evil spirit. 

Native doctors, or sorcerers, who had all sorts of 
dreadful remedies, were called in to give medicine to 

or work charms or spells that 

frighten away the evil 

Sometimes their 

were placed in 

which 




Swimming with Boards 

pouring water over heated stones. The old Hawaiians 
believed that their enemies could cause sickness or 
death, if they could obtain a bit of hair or finger nail of 
the man or woman whom they wished to harm, and they 
were careful to destroy such things. They were almost 
as much afraid of the doctors as of the priests and 
idols, and took pains not to offend them, and to keep 
them in good humor by giving them presents. To this 



49 

day there are a good many Hawaiians who will not call 
in a regular physician when they are ill, but secretly 
consult the native doctors, many of whom still thrive 
in the Islands. 



o^o 



VI. THE PALI 

THE Hawaiian Islands are all very much alike. 
Across each there extends a high ridge, upon one 
side of which the island is bare and rocky, and on the 
other clothed with forests and rich valleys, through 
which countless brooks flow to the sea. The northeast 
trade winds blowing across the ocean bring moisture 
to the land in clouds. It turns into rain when it 
reaches the warm land, just as the moisture collects 
in drops upon the outside of a pitcher of ice water 
on a warm summer day. Where the mountains are 
very high the clouds cannot cross them, but condense 
into rain which falls upon one side of the ridge only, 
leaving the other side dry and parched. 

The barren tracts in the Hawaiian Islands are not 
sandy, but are covered with lava. Lava is of a dull, 
gray color, and may be rough and jagged or smooth 
and glassy. There is now very little barren land on 
the island of Oahu, where Honolulu is located. But, 
long ago, there were few plants or trees, except the 
cocoanut near the sea, and the candle nut, the koa, and 
the kou, which grew on the high lands. Nearly all the 
useful plants, except the sugar cane, were brought to 

KROUT'S HAWAII — 4 



50 

the Islands by white men. There are people still living 
who can remember a time when the beautiful parks and 
gardens around Honolulu were but dry, dusty plains. 

Oahu has more fertile land than the other islands, 
because there is an opening in the mountain ridge, 
through which the moisture from the sea may spread 
over the whole island. This cleft is called the Pa'li, 
a Hawaiian word which means " a rocky precipice." 
The Pali is, in reality, a "'pass/' or opening, in the 
mountain, through which a road has been made, lead- 
ing down to the valleys on the other side. 

There are parts of Oahu which have more rain than 
others ; for only a little of the moisture of the sea is 
blown through the Pali by the trade winds, so that 
some of the plantations are watered bv wells sunk deep 
in the rock. This is called irrigation, and the sugar 
cane grows almost as well on this land as where a 
great deal of rain falls. The road to the Pali is one 
of the most beautiful in the world. Xo one who visits 
Honolulu ought to go away without being taken for a 
drive to the top of the precipice. The road starts from 
Nu-u-a'nu Avenue, a broad, smooth street, with tropical 
trees, shady gardens, and fine residences on either side. 
It is always kept very clean, and in good repair, and is 
never strewn with straw or bits of paper. 

The day that Mr. Earle selected for the excursion 
which he planned to the Pali was clear and bright. 
The mynahs were chattering in the hibiscus hedges. 
Alice had seen the hibiscus at home, in greenhouses ; 
it is a shrub bearing large scarlet flowers which are 
easily killed by the frost. Here she saw long hedges 



5i 

which were covered with the brilliant flowers. The 
Hawaiians use them for wreaths, which they sometimes 
wear instead of hats or bonnets. The doves were 
mournfully cooing in the palm trees, — perhaps bewail- 
ing their sad fate, for the mynahs often fight them, 
break up their nests, and kill their young. 

After they left the smooth, shady avenue, they came 
out into the open valley, from whose borders rose the 
steep mountains. Here were the burying grounds in 
which stood the royal tomb, where many of the Hawai- 
ian kings were buried. 

The mountain sides were thickly covered with the 
guava and the lantana, a shrub which is raised in green- 
houses in cold climates, but which has spread every- 
where in Oahu, and has given the planters a great deal 
of trouble. It grows in dense thickets which are hard 
to root out. 

As they began to ascend toward the Pali, Mr. Earle 
stopped and turned the carriage a little, that they might 
look back over the road by which they had come. The 
valley was like velvet, covered with soft, green grass. 
Here and there were the little garden plots that had 
belonged to the early Hawaiians ; around them the low 
stone walls were crumbling into ruin. 

Beyond the valley, the roofs and spires of the city 
could be seen above the tops of the mango and bread- 
fruit trees, with the tall, slender palms, like plumes, 
waving high above them all. 

Beyond this was the bay, with all the ships lying 
along the dock, or at anchor, farther out ; — the big 
white war ships, and the sailing vessels, some of which 



52 



had just finished their long voyage, while others were 
getting ready to sail with their cargo of sugar, cocoa- 
nuts, and pineapples. 

The lagoon was very still and blue, and along the 
hidden reef, which did not show above the water, a 

curling edge of foam 
shone white as snow. 
The ocean, still farther 
off, lay broad and blue, 
and seemed to melt into 
the sky. The gray, 
jagged, mountain peaks 
rose above them, the 
clouds moving across 
them very slowly. 

A pack train — a drove 
of horses driven by little 
Japanese laborers and 
loaded with supplies of 
food — passed them on 
its way to the planta- 
tions on the other side 
of the Pali. The road 
was so steep that almost 
everything was taken across the Pali in this way, or 
sent around by the sea in steamers. 

When they reached the top of the Pali a thick mist 
suddenly shut them in. Mr. Earle told Alice that this 
was a cloud, and that if she were to walk through any of 
the heavy, gray clouds in the sky, she would find her- 
self in just such a mist as this. 




Guava. 



53 

In a little while the breeze grew stronger, and the mist 
passed away, down the mountain side. But the wind 
blew with terrible force through the narrow Pali. Alice 
had to hold her hat to keep it from blowing away ; she 
could scarcely breathe. They could not hear each other 




Pali Pass 

speak, and the horses bent their heads as they strug- 
gled against the wind. 

Mr. Earle shouted to one of the Japanese drivers of the 
pack train, and asked whether the road was clear on the 
other side of the Pali. The man shook his head and said 
that it would not be safe to drive over the road in such 
a gale. He then held the horses while the party walked 



54 



j and looked down up n the sugar plantations 
that spread out for miles be] 3w the Pali and resem: 
cornfields, except that the :ane was a brighter green. 
They could see the houses of the planters, and the grass 
huts of the Japanese and Hawaiians around the sugar 
mills. 

A wall was built along the edge ;: the precipice, at 
the very top, to prevent people from being blown over 
it in gales, and Alice felt a little dizzy as she looked 
down into the chasm. There were many days. Mr. 
Earle said, when the trade winds were blowing, on which 
it was not safe : visit the Pali; and this Alice could 
well believe. 

Air. Earle told Alice that a fierce battle had been 
fought in the Xuuanu valley bv Ka-me-ha-me'ha the 

.-a:, against the chief who lived upon the island of 

hu. Kamehameha won the battle, and the people 
who fought against him were driven up the mountain 
side, through the Pali, where thev leaped over the edge 
of the wall and were dashed to pieces. 

T:::s battle, which took place in 1795. was the las: ;: 

several which made Kamehameha master of all save 

: the Hawaiian Islands and it led finally to the 

union of all the islands under one government — the 

inning : a new :a for the countrv. 



55 



VII. THE VISIT TO HILO 

AFTER they had spent some time in Honolulu, Mr. 
and Mrs. Earle decided to go to Hi'lo, on the is- 
land of Hawaii. Next to Honolulu, Hilo is the largest 
town in the Hawaiian Islands. The great volcano, Ki-lau- 
e'a, is only thirty miles from Hilo ; more than two hun- 
dred and fifty miles distant from Honolulu. 

They were to sail in the Ki-nau\ a little steamer 
named after one of the great Hawaiian queens. The 
deck was crowded with natives who had been to see 
their friends in Honolulu, or were going to visit on the 
other islands. They sailed in the afternoon, and when 
they had lost sight of Oahu they could see the dark, 
steep shores of Molokai, where the poor lepers live. 
Molokai was still a long distance away, but much 
nearer than when they saw it from the deck of the 
Mariposa. 

The channels between the islands were very broad, 
and the water was like the current of a wide, swift river. 
The little steamer rolled and tossed, so that very few of 
the passengers could stay on deck. 

In the morning the engines stopped. Alice went with 
her father out of the cabin to the forward part of the 
deck, and saw that the steamer was quite close to the land. 
There were a few houses, a large store, and a little 
railway station. Having concluded to go ashore, they 
went down the rope ladder over the side of the vessel, 
into a big boat in which half a dozen Hawaiians were 
already seated. Mr. Earle said that the little village 
was Ma-hu-ko'na, on the island of Hawaii. It was on 



56 



the opposite side from Hilo, which was still a long- 
distance away. 

All that part of the island was covered with gray lava, 
but here and there a coarse sort of grass and a few lit- 
tle ferns had begun 
to take root. Al- 
garoba trees were 
planted around the 
houses, and made a 
pretty green spot on 
the gray and barren 
mountain side. The 
algaroba is the only 
tree, except the palm, 
that will grow in the 
lava, which its fine 
roots can pierce and 
break. Mr. Earle said 
that some day, per- 
haps, the algaroba 
may spring up every- 
where, and there will 
then be soil upon 
which grass and flow- 
ers can also grow. 




Algaroba Tree 



The little railway ran around the coast to the planta- 
tions which were on the other side of the ridge. The cars 
were loaded with bags of sugar, which were to be piled 
into boats and drawn out to the ship by cables. There 
were so many bags that it took nearly all the morning 
to take them from the warehouse to the steamer. 



57 

The little cars were very plain and uncomforta- 
ble, Alice thought, and not at all like those in which 
she traveled in the United States. The seats were 
of wood, and there was no carpet in the aisles. 
But travelers could do very well without that in 
a warm country like Hawaii. The people who once 
had to go back and forth on horseback, over the 
lava, were glad enough to have any sort of a rail- 
way by which they could come and go quickly, and 
without fatigue. Some of the Hawaiians traveled by 
the little train, and others rode up the mountain side 
on horseback. 

Alice could hardly see the road across the lava. The 
women on horseback wore holokus and broad-brimmed 
straw hats, and both men and women had wreaths on 
their hats and around their necks. 

Mr. Earle pointed out to Alice the tall telephone 
poles by the roadside. He said they knew by this 
time in Hilo that the Kinan had reached Mahukona, 
as well as how many passengers there were on board. 
All the towns and plantations were connected by tele- 
phone lines. People used the telephone a great deal, 
and talked with one another many miles apart. Alice 
was surprised at this, for she had supposed the telephone 
was unknown in a country so far away as the Hawaiian 
Islands. 

When the whistle blew, to tell them to come 
on board, they went down to the beach and were 
taken back to the Kinau, in one of the big boats. 
The water again became very rough, and when they 
reached Hilo, the next morning, it was raining hard. 



Alice had never seen it rain so hard anywhere. The 
water fell almost in sheets. There was no dock where 
the passengers could be landed, so the Kinau an- 
chored in the deep water, out in the bay, or roadstead. 
Alice was told that it rained more in Hilo than any- 
where else on the globe, except one little valley among 
the mountains in India. 



."..■:' 



■^iJ^k^'-- 



Wm 



A. Traveler's Palm and Rose Garden 



Everything was dripping wet, the trees, the gardens, 
and the great, broad fields of sugar cane. Alice had 
never seen anything so beautifully green as these cane 
fields, which stretched for miles beyond Hilo, to the 
edge of the fore 

At the landing Alice. had to be lifted up out of the 
boat into the shed which served as a shelter, and pres- 
ently her father and mother joined her. It was rather 



59 

hard for them to climb to the platform, but they laughed 
and said that they were glad they were safe on shore. 
They were driven to a little hotel, an old-fashioned 
frame house, with gardens in the rear containing many 
palms and mango trees. Here they were to stay while 
they were in Hilo. 

In the afternoon the sun came out, and they went for 
a walk. Alice thought Hilo even lovelier than Hono- 




■ 



Tortoises 



lulu. She had never seen so many palm trees, nor so 
many beautiful flowers. In one garden grew nothing 
but roses, white and red and pink. A narrow stream 
ran round the garden, and in the center, among the 
roses, stood a traveler's palm. The leaf stalks of this 
tree collect and hold the water from the rains, and 
travelers, passing through the forests, pierce the stalks 
and obtain water enough to quench their thirst. For 
this reason it is called the traveler's palm. The Little 



6o 

streams seemed to flow everywhere ; across the lawns, 
and through the steep, rocky streets. 

The party returned through a grassy paddock behind 
the house. In the paddock was the largest tortoise Alice 
had ever seen. Its shell was four or five feet in length 
and almost as broad. She was not in the least afraid 
of it, and her father lifted her on its back. It did not 
appear to feel her weight, and walked slowly along. 
Alice had never before taken so strange a ride as that. 
The tortoise had lived in the paddock for several years, 
and seemed quite contented. Mr. Earle said that it 
had been brought from the Ga-lap r a-gos Islands, where 
the tortoise grows to a very great size. 

Alice went to bed Yery early, for the next day they 
were all to take the long drive to the volcano. 



o>©<o 



VIII. THE ROAD TO THE VOLCANO 

ALICE could hardly believe that she had been asleep 
when her mother called her the next morning, and 
told her that the stage would be at the door in half an 
hour. She was very tired after the rough voyage from 
Honolulu and would have liked to rest. But she just 
had time to dress and eat her breakfast when the stage 
was ready to start off. 

It was a shabby old stage, with two horses in rusty 
harness. But the Scotch driver was a good-natured 
man, who invited Alice to sit with him in the front seat. 



6i 

Everybody along the road knew this driver and liked 
him, because he was kind and obliging and ready to do 
errands for anybody. 

Besides the mail sacks, which he drew forward from 
under the seat, so that Alice might rest her feet upon 
them, he carried a variety of things which he had bought 
in Hilo for the people who lived on the plantations he was 
going to pass. There were books and parcels, and a 
neatly covered basket of meat. 

As they drove out of Hilo they saw a great many 
Chinese shops like those in Honolulu. There were the 
same odd little Chinese children in their blue coats 
and green trousers. These were also barefooted, and 
had pink cords braided in with their cues. They w T ere 
very silent, and watched the stage gravely. Their skin 
was dark, and their black eyes were small and 
slanting. 

The Japanese were at work in the sugar plantations. 
They moved across the fields in long lines. Each 
man had a sharp, short knife. He cut the cane with 
one stroke, which felled the stalk, and passed on 
from row to row. When the cane was cut it was 
stripped of the long leaves and collected in bundles. 
Then it was ready to send to the mill to be ground. 
The sun was hot, and the men were covered with dust. 
But they worked very fast and appeared contented and 
cheerful. 

A little farther on, an animal, larger than a cat, ran 
across the road and hid in a stone wall. Its fur was 
thick, and it had a big bushy tail. The driver told Alice 
that it was a mongoose. Mongooses were brought 



62 

from the West Indies to Hawaii to kill the rats that did 
much damage in the cane fields. Had the rats eaten just 
a little of the cane, the planters would not have cared ; 
but they were very greedy, and they gnawed and wasted 
a great many stalks before they found one exactly to 
their taste. The rats are afraid of the mongoose and 
run off and hide when thev see or scent one. Thev 




Jaoanese in the Cane Fields 



know that in a fight thev have very little chance to get 
away. But the mongoose itself has done much mischief ; 
and the planters sometimes wish that it had never been 
brought to the Islands. Rats will fight fiercely, espe- 
cially when they find that they cannot escape, and the 
mongoose prefers to attack something that cannot so 
well defend itself. It is fond of eggs, and robs the 
nests, and comes into the poultry yard after young 
ducks and chickens, which it carries off. In this habit 
it is very much like the weasel. The mongoose also 



63 



kills and eats young pheasants, of which there are a 
great many in the Islands. 

At one place, a party of men were building a road. 
They wore queer clothes of cotton cloth. One sleeve 
of the jacket and one trouser's leg was blue, and the 
other brown. The men were prisoners, who had been 
arrested for gambling and stealing, and were forced, in 




Courthouse at Hilo 

punishment, to work upon the roads. They were nearly 
all Chinese, or Japanese. There were no white men 
among them, and only a few Hawaiians. At night they 
were locked up in a small house, which could be taken 
to pieces and moved, so that they carried it with them 
as the road was finished. 

The man in charge of the prisoners did not watch 
them very closely, and was quite kind to them. He 
said that they did not often try to run away, but were 



6 4 

good-tempered and easy to control. He told Mr. Earle 
an interesting story about a young Japanese who lived 
at Hilo. He was a cook who was arrested and put 
into jail in Hilo for righting. The jailor liked him 
and felt that he had not intended to do wrong, so he 
unlocked the jail door every morning and let him out 
to go to the house where he worked. In the evening, 
when he had cooked his master's dinner and washed 
the dishes, he walked back to the jail, and the jailor 
locked him up again. He did this until the Japanese 
had been in jail as long as it was necessary for him to 
stay. 

Usually, the Chinese and Japanese are industrious 
and well-behaved. Once in a while there are bad men 
among them, but there are rarely many men in the 
Hawaiian prisons. 

The road was smooth and hard. It ran through the 
forests, and there was deep shade a great part of the 
way. Alice did not realize that they were going uphill 
all the time, although it grew cooler as they approached 
the volcano. 

In the first forest through which the road had been 
made, there were only such plants and trees as grow in 
hot countries. Breadfruit and other useful trees had 
been, planted along the roadsides, as cherry trees are 
planted along the roads in Germany. 

In the forests there were tall, branching tree ferns, 
palms, and bananas. A strange vine, called the i-a-i'-a, 
wound round the trunks in thick coils like ropes. The 
end, which swayed to and fro, was like the yucca which 
Alice had seen growing in gardens at home. In the 






65 

center of the stiff, gray leaves was a long scarlet cone, 
like a very large pine cone ; this was the flower of the 
iaia. 

Here and there they saw deep holes, that were very 
broad at the top, narrowing at the bottom, until there 




Breadfruit 



was hardly room for a man to stand. These were 
the craters of little volcanoes. Ferns and vines grew 
over the walls in the shade and dampness. Alice 
thought that they were like gardens, which grew there 
without having to be watered and taken care of. 

At noon they reached the Halfway House, a small 

KROUT'S HAWAII — C 



66 

hotel in the forest, where the ..lad to rest for an 

hour. The Halfway House was built upon a steep 
hill. The road wound up to the door, but there was a 
shorter path by a flight of steps made of logs. For the 
first time thev heard a great many birds. The lower 
forest had been very hent. 

They sat on the veranda and ate their luncheon, and 
they could see for a long distance up and down the 
smooth, shady road. When they set out again, after 
their noon rest, they saw cleared spaces here and there 
in the forest. These were coffee plantations, and the 
young plants were growing under such trees as had been 
left to shade them. Alice thought that it must tak 
great deal of patience to raise coffee, as the trees do 
not bear fruit for three or four years All this time 
they must be vatched and pruned, and kept free from 
blight and insects. The leaves of the coffer ire are 
a dark, glossy green. The flowers are pure white and 
very fragrant, like orange blossoms. 

The drivr. was kept busy distributing the parcels 
he had brought for the people who lived in the hou 
which could be seen through the trees, far back from 
the road. Sometimes the parcels were given to a Ha- 
waiian servant who ran down to the road to get them, 
when she heard the rattle of wheels. At other times 
they were placed in little boxes, nailed against a tree 
trunk, where they were safe. Once the driver hung a 
beefsteak tied up in a green leaf, to a hook which had 
1 driven into a tree, high out of reach, so that it 
might be safe from dogs 

They passed many Hawaiian houses made of wood, 



6 7 



which were not clean like the grass huts at Wai- 
mea; the gardens were very untidy. Both men and 
women sat on the floor of their verandas, smoking 
pipes. None of them were at work. Many of the 








Coffee Plantation 



houses were surrounded by fences made of the trunks 
of tree ferns, cut into pieces two or three feet in length. 
The cutting had not killed the wood, which had sent out 
young shoots, so that the fence was almost like a hedge 
of growing ferns. 

After a time, they reached a wide, sloping plain, 
whence the ocean could be seen surrounding throe sides 



68 

of the island. Far off rose the great peaks of Mauna 
Loa and Mauna Kea, — very beautiful with their snow- 
covered tops against the deep blue sky. The lower 
slopes of the two mountains were thick with dark for- 
ests, in which, the driver said, there were droves of wild 
cattle. 

The plain was covered with the most wonderful ferns 
that Alice had ever seen. They were not only many 
shades of green, but also pink, and red, and purple. 

In a little while they entered another forest. The 
weather had grown very chilly, almost like an autumn 
afternoon. The trees were now of a different kind 
from those seen on the low, hot lands near Hilo. Here 
they saw the kou and the koa and the kukui, which 
grow best in the cooler regions- Alice saw also clusters 
of wild roses growing by the grassy roadside. 

Just as the sun set they saw before them a steep slope 
covered with trees and shrubs. It was the outer wall 
of the great volcano of Kilauea. The road entered a 
cleft through this wooded wall, and soon they reached 
the edge of the crater. Within the wall, which was a 
circle nine miles around, there was a narrow, grassy 
ledge, upon which had been built a hotel. Near it there 
was a fine garden full of beautiful flowers. In front of 
the hotel was the crater of Kilauea, an enormous pit, 
into which they could look very easily. It was shut in 
by high cliffs, so steep that they were almost like walls 
of stone. A narrow, zigzag path had been made by 
which travelers went down into the crater. The bed of 
the crater was hidden in the dusk, but far across it, at 
one side, was a great lake of fire. They could see the 



6 9 

flames and the smoke. The air was full of gas and 
sulphur, and they could hear a noise like the sound of 
water dashing against the beach. It was the boiling 
lava rising and falling in the fiery lake, which the 
Hawaiians long ago had named Ha-le-mau-mau', the 
" house of everlasting Fire." 

The Hawaiians used to think that a very cruel spirit, 
named Pe'le, lived in Halemaumau, and they were care- 
ful not to make her angry. They tried to secure her 
good will by making offerings of black hens and black 
pigs, of which she was supposed to be very fond. 

Mr. Earle arranged to go down into the crater the 
next day ; then they all returned to the hotel to rest 
after the long day's drive. 



oj^o 



IX. IN THE CRATER 

THE next day was very cold, and from her window 
Alice could see the steam and smoke hanging over 
the crater. The fires were much dimmer by daylight, 
though they were still burning fiercely, and she could 
hear the rise and fall of the lava, which sounded like 
the surf beating against the reef. She knew it was still 
very hot in Hilo, and that it was colder at the volcano 
only because they were four thousand feet higher than 
they had been when they set out for Kilauea the morn- 
ing before. Fortunately they had brought plenty of 
warm clothing. 

At breakfast they were served with some small pink 



berries, called o-helos, which looked very much like 
cranberries. 

The ohelo grows on the rocky ledge near the hotel. 
For a long time the people were afraid to eat ohelos 
without first offering a few to Pele, the spirit of the 
lake, who was supposed to be very fond of these 
berries 

Mrs. Earle promised that when they came up out of 
the crater she would tell Alice about Kapiolani, who 
made the people understand that there was no such 
spirit as Pele and that any one might gather the ohelos 
and eat them without harm. 

It rained in the morning, but in the afternoon the 
guide came with the horses, and they all prepared to 
ride down into the crater. The bottom, or floor of the 
crater. narrower than the top, being only 

about three miles wide. It was completely covered 
with lava. Some of this lava was smooth as ice, and 
some was jagged and twisted, like great ropes. It 
looked very dismal. Everywhere the steam came up 
through narrow cracks and openings in the lava. 

When they had climbed into the saddles, the guide 
led the way and they followed. Mr. Earle told Alice 
to hold the reins firm.lv, that she might not fall, in c 
the horse should stumble. A timid girl would not h: 
enjoyed such a ride, but Alice was not afraid, although 
it was not easy for her to keep her seat in the saddle. 
As they wound along the narrow path, the earth and 
stones broke loose and rattled down the side of the cliff. 

Alice was glad when, at last, thev reached the bottom. 
She looked around and thought she had never seen so 



7i 

gloomy a place. Everything was gray, or streaked with 
color, where it had been stained by the steam. A 
narrow track led from the foot of the cliff to the fiery 
lake. On either side of the path an irregular line had 
been made of blocks of lava which were placed several 
feet apart, that the horses might not stray from the 




Crater of Kilauea 



path. This was necessary ; for while the crust was 
thick in some places, in others it was so thin that it 
would very easily have broken through with the weight 
of the horses. 

As the party drew nearer the fiery lake Alice was 
thankful that the blocks of lava had been placed along 
the path ; for the steam was so dense that they had 
to wait until it cleared away, and they could not have 
kept in the road but for the little wall. 



72 

At one place there was a deep chasm over which a 
bridge had been built. This had opened once, when 
a party of men were down in the crater. They heard 
a noise like thunder, and felt the earth tremble beneath 
their feet. The cliffs shook as if they would fall, 
and the party hurried along the path, following the 
chasm until they came to a narrow place at the head 
of it, over which they could jump. Then they climbed 
up the zigzag path to the top and were saved. But 
the guides, who had left them, were badly frightened, 
and they came running to meet them. They were glad 
when they found that all had escaped in safety. The 
shaking of the earth and the trembling of the cliffs had 
been caused by other fires, like those in the boiling 
lake, deep down out of sight under the lava crust. 
This crust was raised and shaken by the steam and 
heat inside. 

The lava takes many strange forms. As it flows it 
falls in little cascades, which harden and become like 
stone. There are hillocks and great hollow bubbles, 
and blowholes, like chimneys, through which the steam 
and smoke rise and float away. 

After a while they came to a little hut not far from 
the fiery lake. Here they left their horses with the 
guides, and went the rest of the way on foot. Alice 
could feel the heat of the lava through the thick soles 
of her boots, which were quite badly scorched. 

The lake, close at hand, looked terrible as they 
approached it. It was a thousand feet long and nearly 
as wide, and it had built up all around the margin a 
rim of rough lava. A great deal of the surface of 



73 

the lake was covered with a gray scum. The scum 
wrinkled and cracked in every direction, and out of 
the seams little jets of flame burst forth. They hissed 
and burned brightly, just as Alice had seen the flames 
break from a piece of burning coal. Sometimes the 
smoke burst out, before the flame appeared, 









pffci 



Lava Overflow 



There were hundreds of these little hissing fires. 
But the most awful of all were two great fountains 
of fire which rose and fell without ceasing. They 
leaped high into the air, and fell back into the lake 
with a roar like that of the sea. Even near at hand 
one could not hear another speak. 

The boiling lava in the lake, which was white hot 
everywhere beneath the scum, did not flow over the 
lava rim, so they could walk quite close to it. The 



/ 



74 

neat burned their faces, and the gas would have suf- 
focated them, had thev not covered their mouths with 
their handkerchiefs. The guides who had come with 
them to the lake were not afraid. They dipped pieces 
of money in the hot lava. When it grew cool it 
hardened, and they sold it to travelers. 

Mr. Earle picked up something that looked like a 
bundle of fine threads of erlass. such as Alice had seen 




Lava Overflow and Fall 

at the glass blower's. The gray scum was very much 
like melted glass, and bits of it were caught up by 
the wind and blown away. As it was borne along it 
lengthened out into long threads or filaments. It was 
called " Pele's hair," and travelers were always glad to 
find it. 

Mr. Earle told Alice that where it overflows the lake, 
the lava moves very slowly, and the outside crust soon 
grows cool. Under the surface the lava keeps hot, 



75 

sometimes for a whole year. The fire in the lake often 
goes out entirely. It is thought that the boiling lava 
then escapes through a crack or fissure in the bed of 
the lake, into channels or caverns far down under the 
ground. Nothing is left then, but a dark, deep hole. 
After a long time, sometimes weeks or months, smoke 
may rise from the empty bed. Then the fire appears, 
and the lava begins to boil up and up, until the lake is 
once more quite full to the top. It may burn for weeks 
and months, and then disappear. It has done this for 
many ages. 

Once the red-hot lava made a passage for itself 
under the wall of the crater, and came to the surface 
of the ground outside. It then began to flow down the 
sloping land to the sea. It was like a great, red-hot 
river of melted iron, and by its light people could read 
a long distance away. As it flowed it burned every- 
thing in its path. 

When evening came on, the guide said that they 
must return to the hut, for it was not safe to stay in 
the crater after nightfall. 

As they rode back across the lava the fires were still 
seen flaming, and the smoke and steam were blown 
across their path. The stars were shining brightly in 
the heavens, and the new moon hung above the crater, 
making altogether a grand and impressive scene. 



/ 



X. THE STORY OF KAPIOLAXI 

IX the morning, Alice and her mother sat on the 
veranda of the hotel, overlooking the crater. They 

ild see the lava boiling wer the rim of the lake 
where thev had stood the day cfore. 

Alice was looking thoughtfully at a piece of Pele's 
hair which she held in her hand, and that reminded her 
to ask her mother to tell her the story of Pele and 
Kapiolani This is the story as Mrs. Earle told it : 

Kapiolani, a Hawaiian chief, noble-hearted 

man. Before the missionaries came from our coun- 
try and from England to teach the people of Hawaii, 
the chiefs were rften ignorant and cruel. They could 
put to death any >ne they chose, and they used their 
power most unmercifully, until the missionaries, for 
whom they had the greatest respect, taught them how 

:ked it was to treat their subjects with such cruelty. 

Many of the Hawaiians had lost faith in their idols 
and their gods, the spirits supposed to live in the sea 
and earth and air, and, for a while, they had no religion. 
It was for this reason easy to persuade them to become 
Christians. But there were others who still feared the 
old gods, and were afraid of angering them. The gods 
they feared most were the shark god, and Pele, who, 
they thought, lived in the crater. 

It was hard to convince them that there was no such 
spirit as Pele. for they thought if any one disobeyed 
her. she would strike him dead. The missionaries had 
tried in vain to show the Hawaiians that this idea was 



77 

false, but the people were still in deadly fear of this 
spirit. 

At last the chief, Kapiolani, who had become a Chris- 
tian, said that she would go to Kilauea and prove that 
the story was false. She lived a long distance from 
the volcano, but she got everything ready, bid her 
friends good-by, and set forth on the journey. The 
road was then but a narrow track through the tangled 
woods, over the rough lava. 

It was a journey of more than one hundred and fifty 
miles, and Kapiolani and the people who accompanied 
her walked nearly all the way. There was no comfort- 
able Halfway House where they could rest. They 
had to bring their food and beds with them, and they 
were many days on the way. 

Kapiolani's companions were very sad. They knew 
that they could not persuade her to give up the visit to 
the crater, and they feared that they would never 
return to their homes. But Kapiolani herself was not 
in the least anxious. She laughed away the fears of 
her companions and cheered them as they approached 
the volcano. 

The common people did not often go very close to 
Kilauea, but the priests and priestesses had their huts 
at the top of the cliff. They pretended to talk to Pele, 
and would tell the people what she said to them. In 
this way they made the foolish Hawaiians obey them 
and bring them presents of food and clothing. 

One of these priests was a tall, fierce man who was 
much feared, and his sister who lived with him at the 
volcano was powerful and cruel. But they became 



ft 

Christians and then departed from Kilauea to live peace- 
fully among the missionaries. 

The sun had gone down when Kapiolani reached 
the volcano, and she could see the red glow of the fire 
in the sky. A priestess came to meet her and told her 
to go back, but she would not listen. The pries: 
then told her that she and all the people with her 
would perish if she came any nearer. But even this 
did not frighten Kapiolani. and as she was a great chief, 
the priests could not forbid her to do as she pleased. 

She gathered some of the ohelo berries from the 
ground., but, instead of following the custom of throw- 
ins; a few into the crater and crying. " Pele. here 
are your ohelos, I offer you some, some I also eat." 
Kapiolani ate her berries at once, while the people 
watched her with awe and trembling. To their aston- 
ishment nothing happened. Kapiolani neither vanished 
from their sight, nor was she stricken to the ground bv 
the angry spirit, as they fully expected. There she 
stood smiling, safe and sound. 

Then, with eighty of her companions, she walked 
down the steep path into the crater. When she reached 
the edge of the fiery lake she cried out in a loud voice : 
" The God who has made Kilauea is my God. and He 
alone has kindled the fires of the volcano. I do not 
fear Pele. If I perish through her anger, then con- 
tinue to stand in awe of her; but if I come away un- 
harmed, I hope you will believe in the true God." 
They waited, hardly daring to breathe, but still nothing 
happened. The fires burned just as they had burned 
before. The smoke rose to the sky, and blew aw 



79 

There was no sound save that of Kapiolani's voice, and 
of the waves of fire rising and falling. When they 
saw that they were quite safe, they sang a hymn, and 
then went up out of the crater. It must have been a 
solemn sight to see the people waiting by the lake of 
fire to learn the lesson Kapiolani wished to teach — that 
their thoughts about Pele were but illusions. Thence- 
forth the priests received no more presents, and no more 
offerings were made to the spirit, and to-day nobody is 
afraid of Pele. 

XI. THE FEAST 

THE Hawaiians of old were generally people of 
cleanly habits. They often bathed in the surf, 
and their tapa mantles were not easily soiled. They 
were also much more careful about their food than the 
people of Africa, or some of the tribes of Indians, who 
will eat almost anything. 

They had a peculiar way of cooking, which is not 
common now, except among those who live far away 
from the villages and plantations, on the less thickly 
settled islands. When the white people wish to enter- 
tain their friends in the pleasantest way they can 
think of, they employ a Hawaiian to prepare a native 
feast, or lu-ait! , at which the food is cooked in the 
native manner. Invitations to such a feast are eagerly 
accepted. 

While they were in Hilo, Mr. and Mrs. Eaiie and 
Alice were invited to one of these feasts, given in their 



So 



honor. The house to which they were invited was a 
bungalow, like Mr. Danvers's house, with wide, shady 
verandas. The feast was to be held in a mango grove 
behind the house. The night before, the Hawaiian who 
was to do the cooking got his supplies together, and 
made all his preparations. A deep hole was dug in the 



• 


U 




■:■'_ ■ 


* =- : ^^^~- r -_ ^ 




.V < Stfr^ 


^ A 1H 






■tf»VP jfeS iWir 


*^ ^Ki ^£ 


m^^dM 


^S*«* 


£ ^ "- ; i 


JSm 







A Native Feas: 



und. This was lined with stones, upon which a fire 
was built, and the stones were heated red-hot. They 
were then allowed to cool a little, after which they were 
covered with a thick layer of taro leaves. 

The food to be cooked was fish, fowl, pork, and sweet 
potatoes. The fish, fowl, and pork were cut into pieces, 
and each piece was carefully wrapped by itself in a ti 
leaf. This is the broad, tough leaf of a tree that grows 






nearly everywhere in the fertile parts of the Islands. 
It has a long stem. It is used instead of paper for 
wrapping up meat and other things bought in the mar- 
ket. The edges of the leaf are tightly twisted together, 
and the long stem forms a sort of handle, by which the 
parcel is carried, like a leaf basket. 

When the leaves are wrapped around the fish and 
pork to be cooked, the stem is left as a handle. These 
little bundles are placed in the oven in layers, with a 
taro leaf between each layer, which gives the food 
a pleasant flavor. When the oven is partly full a little 
water is poured in, and then some earth, and the food 
is left to cook for many hours. 

When in the old days a feast was given for the king 
or the queen, or for a chief, an arbor of bamboo was 
built, and this was covered with flowers and with the 
ma-i'le, a vine with very sweet-smelling leaves, and the 
feast was spread on the ground under the arbor. 

There was no arbor for the feast to which Alice was 
invited. The food was spread on the grass under the 
algaroba trees. There was no linen tablecloth, but the 
ground was covered very thickly with large ferns, and 
at each place was a ti leaf, upon which the fingers could 
be wiped. Down the middle of the fern tablecloth 
were placed a number of large polished calabashes. 
These were filled with poi, and scattered among them 
were tender young onions, and water lemons which 
Alice at first thought were little gourds. There were 
also a great many flowers, without which no table in 
Hawaii is ever complete. 

Before the feast was ready, the guests were given a 

K Roll's HAWAII — 6 



82 

long garland of the sweet, dark green maile, which 
each one was expected to wear. There were no chairs 
at this Hawaiian feast, and all sat upon the ground, in 
picnic fashion. Then the hot food was brought in by 
the cook, who had taken great pains, and seemed very 
proud when his cooking was praised. A smoking mor- 
sel, done up in a ti leaf, was carried by the stem, and 
placed in front of each guest, who opened it and ate the 
meat with the fingers, in the real Hawaiian fashion. It 
seemed to Alice very untidy, and those who were used 
to knives and forks did not quite know how to do with- 
out them. 

At each place there had been set a little dish filled 
with chopped cocoanut and sea water, and the fowl and 
pork were dipped into this as a relish, which was also a 
Hawaiian custom. 

The poi, which was eaten with the fingers, was hard 
to manage, but the Hawaiian guests ate it without any 
trouble, dipping it out of the calabash, rolling it into 
a ball on the tip of the finger, and tossing it into the 
mouth, without spilling a drop. Alice was afraid to try 
it, when she saw that even her mother spilled it, and 
she asked for a spoon, which was against the rules at 
a luau. 

They were all very hungry, and Alice thought that 
no fish or chicken she had ever eaten had tasted so 
good as this cooked in a little Hawaiian oven in the 
ground. The onions, sweet potatoes, and salted shrimps 
were eaten with the pork and fish. The Hawaiians of 
old never cooked shrimps ; they brought them to the table, 
where they crawled about and were eaten alive. Alice 



83 

was glad that this unpleasant way of eating shrimps 
had gone out of fashion. 

For dessert they had melons and mangoes, and the 
juicy water lemons ; and they drank cocoanut milk. 
Alice did not think the mangoes were half so good as 
ripe peaches or apples. The thick, coarse rind, which 



BRF i&a3S 


J3i 


mm M^m 




mm?*, 

*: ; ■ 


,J * 7>£*w--V£ ' 


v- '' fth '$ 


VJgffiHBF: - 


^WlkUkJBET^ 



A Band of Singers 

had a taste like turpentine, spoiled the fruit if it touched 
the pulp, and the stone was very large and hard. 

When the feast was nearly over, a band of singers came 
with their little mandolins, and they sang and played for 
the guests. When they had finished, it was time to start 
back to the hotel. 



XII. A SUGAR PLANTATION 

BEFORE they returned to Honolulu, Alice went 
with her father to see one of the large sugar 
plantations near Hilo. No wheat, or corn, except the 



84 

little that is raised in the Chinese gardens, gr 
in the Hawaiian Islands, and but very few [ 
are raised there. Those that are sold in the market are 
sent to the Islands either from our country or fi 
New Zealand. 

A great part of the fertile land is planted with sugar 




na:::g Sugar Cane 

cane, which has always grown in the Islands, but has 
been much improved bv cultivation. 

The cane grows very tall and is a bright vellow-green, 
with blossoms like the sorghum. The stalk is filled 
with pith like the cornstalk, but more juicy. From this 
sweet juice the sugar is extracted. 

The cane does row from seed, but from cuttin 

planted in furrows. The sugar cane in the Hawaiian 
Islands yields more sugar than that grown in our South- 



85 

ern states, where often the cold weather comes before 
the cane is fully ripe. 

The cane is cut by Japanese laborers. Alice had 
seen them at work in the fields the day she went to 
the volcano. They had short, sharp knives, with which 
they cut down the long stalks. The cane must be sent 
to the mills as soon as it is cut. Otherwise it ferments, 
in which case it is fit for nothing but fuel. 

Some of the fields are crossed by little railway lines 
that can be moved from place to place. The cane is 
loaded on to small cars and taken in this way to the 
mill. Alice took a ride on one of these trains of cars 
before the cane w T as cut. It was very pleasant to go 
flying through the fields, w r ith the tall cane growing 
higher than a man's head, in every direction. 

In fields where there is no railway, there are wooden 
troughs on high trestles. These are filled with water, 
and a slight incline toward the mill makes a strong cur- 
rent. The cane is carried from the fields to this flume, 
or trough, and. is floated quickly down to the mill. 
When the supply of cane runs low the engineer whis- 
tles for more. When the grinding begins the mills 
run day and night. 

There is no special season for planting cane in the 
Hawaiian Islands, as in a country where the cane must 
be cut before the cold weather comes. Sometimes the 
planting, cutting, and grinding all go on at the same 
time. The mill is a very busy place, lit up at night by 
electric light. 

When the cane reaches the mill it is cut into pieces. 
This work is often done by Japanese women. The cane 



is then torn into shreds by a machine called a shredder. 
The mass of shredded cane is passed under heavy rol- 
lers until it is squeezed dry. The juice is a pale green. 
This is boiled until a thick, gray scum rises to the top. 
a little lime being put into the juice to destroy the acid, 
which would prevent the sugar from forming. The 



i^r S^V ^ 










Loading Cane on the C?,rs 

juice is allowed to cool, and the scum is taken off until 
the juice is quite clear. It is, however, purified still 
more by being strained through bags, and then the 
pure juice is placed in open pans so that the watery 
part may evaporate, that is. pass off into the air. That 
which remains is the molasses. It is boiled again, in a 
large vessel called a vacuum pan. Now it begins to 
turn into sugar. It is very important that it should not 



87 

boil too long in the vacuum pan, as this wastes the sugar. 
Last of all it is placed in large vessels which whirl rap- 
idly round and round. The sugar separates from the 
molasses and settles in a thick coating around the sides 
of the vessel. The molasses still left runs out through 




Quarters on a Sugar Plantation 



a strainer of wire gauze and is collected in a large vat 
down under the mill. Sometimes this molasses is boiled 
over, and more sugar is obtained from it, but not of so 
good a quality as that made first. All this is done very 
quickly, and a few hours from the time the cane is put 
into the shredder, the pale yellow sugar is dry and ready 
to be put into bags to be shipped to the United States. 






There, by a long and tedious process called refining, 
the pure white sugar is made. 

The little houses of the Japanese laborers who work 
in the cornfields were interesting to see. They v 
clustered together in a deep gorge near a stream. The 
s:rep roofs were made of overlapping palm lea 




s;~ r£r H:_:t 



Every cottage had a pretty garden of flowers and 
vegetables, for the Japanese, like the Hawaiians, are 
great lovers of flowers. 

These laborers come from Japan to work on the 
sugar plantations, agreeing to stav three vears. after 
which they are free to return to Japan. This they are 
not always ready to do, for they can earn much more 



8 9 

money in the Hawaiian Islands, and live with greater 
comfort there than in their own country. The planter 
not only pays them wages, but provides them with 
houses, with fuel for then* fires, and with a doctor 
when they are ill. Sunday is a day of rest on the 
plantations, a holiday which the Japanese do not have 
in Japan. 

The mills furnish work for the women, also, if they 
desire it. As the Japanese are very frugal, and do not 
waste their wages, when they go back to Japan with 
the money they have earned and saved in Hawaii, they 
are considered rich. 

Alice was much interested in the pretty children play- 
ing about the doors, or following their mothers who 
were tying up the vines, or were busy among the 
flowers. A lovely spot was that deep, shady ravine, 
with the clear stream running down to the sea, and 
Alice did not wonder that the Japanese are so happy 
and contented, and that many of them do not care to 
return to their own country. It is pleasant for them to 
live where they can always have work, where there is 
no winter, no frost or snow, and where the flowers 
bloom the whole year round. 




-.? 



XIII. MAUI 

ALICE rv when the visit :o Hilo came to an 

end. She had learned to love the pretty village 
with its gardens of re ses :1 steep, shady store* 

They could not stay longer because they were to make 
a short visit to Mau'i before they returned to Honolulu, 
and thev planned also to take a trip to Kau-ai . which is 
northwest of Oahu. 

They sailed up the eastern or windward side, which. 
unlike the leeward sice, is rich with plantations, and 
dense growths of ferns and bananas. Through this 
tangle of plants and flowers, countless streams, clear as 

stal, pour down into the sea. There are little spar- 
kling rivulets, misty waterfalls, and rushing cascades. 

In the afternoon the steamer anchored near a small 
Hawaiian village, and Alice went ashore with her father. 
The village was not clean, and the people sitting in 
their doorways looked idle and untidy. 

Far up the mountain side could be seen tiny cottages 
like small white specks surrounded by gardens. Still 
farther off there were several fine houses in which the 
planters lived. Maui in the distance looked like a great 
rounded mountain. 

They left the windward side of Hawaii and crossed 
the channel to the barren coast of Maui. There they 
took on board a number of pigs. These were driven 
down to the edge of th here they were caught 

by the leg and nose and thrown into a barge which lay 
close to the shore. The barge then went out to the 



9i 

steamer, which lay in the roadstead (a calm place where 
ships can anchor), because there was no pier where it 
could land. The poor pigs seemed to know that they 
were being taken from their home, for they struggled 
and squealed most pitifully. 




Dense Growths of Fern 



Mr. Earle and Alice did not like to see the pigs put 
into the barge, so they went up on the mountain side 
for a walk. It was very steep and rough, with but few 
trees, and only a little coarse grass. Large blocks and 
fragments of lava were scattered about. They could 
see the houses far below them, and the steamer, with 



92 

the people walking about the deck. When the whistle 
blew they were rowed back to the steamer, which then 
went on its way. 

Late in the evening they reached La-hai na, where 
they were to stay for a few days. 

As the sun set they saw a large whale, not very far 
away, and Mr. Earle told Alice that there were always 
a great many whales in that channel. 

At Lahaina there were carriages waiting to meet the 
passengers who went ashore. In one of these Mr. 
Earle and his party were driven to the house they were 
to visit. 

Maui is almost like two islands, united by a narrow, 
sandy isthmus. Thistle and indigo are the only plants 
that thrive in this sandy isthmus. As the sea washes 
the shore to the north and south, the wind blows across 
the isthmus nearly all the time. The road is buried, 
and the air is filled with clouds of dust. It is some- 
times very hard for travelers to keep in the path. The 
isthmus is about eight miles wide. 

In the smaller part of Maui, which, like the village, is 
called Lahaina, there is a valley called I-a'o, which vis- 
itors to Maui always go to see. It is walled in by 
cliffs from three thousand to six thousand feet high. 
The trail, or road, runs through a deep gorge covered 
with forests. The walls of the cliffs, which inclose 
the valley on three sides, are covered with pale 
green candle nut trees, and with thousands of ferns. 
Streams and waterfalls flow down the cliffs in every 
direction. They empty into a very swift stream called 
Wai-lu'ku. Wailuku means " waters of destruction.'' 



93 

The stream received its name in memory of a great battle 
fought in the Iao valley, in which many men were killed. 




The Needles 

White clouds float across the face of the cliff, and 
with these the whole valley is sometimes filled. 

From the village of Wailuku there is a little railway 
leading to the large sugar plantations at Sprcckelsville 



94 

Mr. Earle's main purpose in Maui was to visit Ha-le- 
a-ka-la', the largest extinct volcano on the globe. The 
name means "the house of the sun." The great 
hollow crater is eighteen miles around, and when, ages 
ago, it was alive with flaming fire and boiling lava, the 
name was very appropriate. 

There is no comfortable way of making the journev 




.'. auuKu 



Village 

to the top of Haleakala, so, much to Alice's regret, she 
and her mother remained behind. 

The party which Mr. Earle joined started in the 
afternoon from Ma-ka-wa'o, which is some distance up 
the mountain side. The road was rough, and it rained 
very hard. Late in the evening, when they were 
almost at the top, they halted and prepared to camp 
until daylight. 



95 

A fire was made, supper was cooked, and they lay 
down to sleep, rolled up in their blankets ; but they were 
kept aw r ake by the bitter cold and the wind. The cold 
had grown more intense as they approached the top of 
the mountain, which was ten thousand feet high. 

The lower slopes of the mountains were covered with 
forests, but higher up there were only tough shrubs, 




I Copyright, 18!>;>. hy C. C. Langill ) 

On Top of Haleakala 

coarse grass and ferns, and scoriae or ashes. At the 
very top there were more scoriae but very few ferns. 

When they reached the top they stood looking down 
into the hollow shell of Haleakala, shut in by walls 
eighteen miles around. The crater lay two thousand 
feet below. Beneath this bed were layers upon layers 
of lava, which had cooled and hardened, until they 
were like stone. 

The floor of Haleakala is not level, or ridged, like 



9 6 

that of Kilauea, but jagged and broken; and there are 
cones that are as high as very high hills. Along the 
north and east wall, inside the crater, are two great 
openings, Ko-o-lau' and Kau'po Gaps. At some time, 
long ago, when the fires were burning in Haleakala, 
the lava forced its way through these gaps, down the 
mountain side into the sea. Such a stream of red-hot 
lava poured out of Kilauea about fifty years ago, and 
heated the water so that thousands of fish were killed. 
How it must have hissed and steamed, and what a terri- 
fying sight it must have been ! 

The rocks and lava in the crater of Haleakala are 
colored by the fierce heat, as though thev had just been 
cooled. At times clouds moved across the crater, hiding 
it altogether from view ; then thev broke away and the 
sun shone brightly ; and at one time they settled down 
within the crater, giving it the appearance of a sea of 
milk-white foam, rising and falling and gliding away. 

Mr. Earle brought Alice some silver swords, strange 
plants that grow thickly on the top of the mountain 
near the crater. Thev are a shimmering white, and the 
long slender leaves look as if thev were cut out of strips 
of frosted silver. 



k£<Ko»- 



XIV. THE STORY OF CAPTAIN COOK 

ALICE had been wondering for some time why she 
saw so few animals in the Islands, and she was all 

the more surprised to learn that before the coming of 



97 

the white man there had been fewer still. Pigs, dogs, 
and mice were the only animals to be found there before 
the visit of the famous Captain Cook, who brought with 
him three goats, a boar, and a pig of English breed. 
Alice had never heard of Captain Cook, and in answer 
to her many questions, her father told her the following 
story : 

Captain Cook was a fearless English sailor, who, on 
his third voyage of discovery round the globe, landed, 
in 1778, with his two ships, the Resolution and the 
Discovery, on the island of Kauai. 

He was not the first white man to visit Hawaii, but 
the few Spaniards who had stopped there, more than 
two hundred years before him, had long since been for- 
gotten. 

Now it so happened that the Hawaiians believed in a 
god, Lo'no, who, they thought, had left their Islands to 
visit another country, but would some day return ; so 
when they saw this odd-looking man come sailing toward 
them in his strange ship, at once they thought it must 
be Lono. Soon the people gathered in crowds on the 
shore, and some of them, though they feared to go on 
board, rowed out near the vessel. 

When Captain Cook went ashore, the people were so 
frightened that they fell flat on their faces. But he 
made them understand that he would not hurt them, 
and then they were more certain than ever that he was a 
god. A priest recited a long prayer, after which the 
people brought offerings of vegetables, pigs, and fruit. 
Captain Cook, in return, gave them nails and scraps of 
iron, which they valued as a precious metal, for iron was 

KROUT'S HAWAII — 7 



nowhere found on the Islands, and they used it for brace- 
lets and other ornaments, and for weapons. 

Captain Cook visited the island of Ni-i-hau', and he 
left there seeds of melons, pumpkins, and onions. 
The chiefs had been prepared by their neighbors for 




An Offering to Captain Cook 



something strange, but none the less thev were startled 
by the sight of the foreigners. One of the Hawaiians 
thus described the Englishmen : 

11 The men are white ; their skin is loose and folding; 
their heads are angular ; fire and smoke issue from their 
mouths; they have openings in the sides of their bodies. 



99 

into which they thrust their hands, and draw forth iron, 
beads, nails, and other treasures ; their language cannot 
be understood. This is the way they speak : ' a hi-ka' 
pa-la'le, hi-ka'pa-la'le, hi-o-lu-ai', o'a-la'ki, wa-la' wa-la'ki, 
po'ha.' " 

The smoke and fire came from pipes, which had 
never before been seen by the natives, and the holes in 
their bodies were the pockets in their trousers. 

Before Captain Cook left, he named the country Sand- 
wich Islands, after an English nobleman, Lord Sand- 
wich ; but the natives have always preferred the old 
name " Hawaii," and by that name they still call their 
country. 

About a year later, Captain Cook again visited Ha- 
waii and, for a time, was regarded with even greater 
awe than before. At one. place the beautiful feather 
mantle of the king was thrown over his shoulders, 
which was the greatest compliment that could be paid 
him. The mantle was made of tiny yellow feathers, 
fastened to a sort of net made of hemp, and the surface 
was as smooth as the breast of a bird. It took thou- 
sands of feathers to make a single cloak, and these 
cloaks were so costly that none but the kings could 
afford to wear them. 

The birds from which the yellow feathers were ob- 
tained were not easy to catch. They lived on honey, 
and had long, curved bills. They had only two or 
three yellow feathers under each wing. The rest of 
the plumage was black, changing to greenish gold, like 
the feathers of the blackbird. The birds were not 
killed, but were caught by smearing the boughs of the 

l.cfC. 



IOO 

trees on which they alighted with a sticky gum, which 
held them fast. 

Then the yellow feathers were pulled out and the 
birds were set free, that the feathers might grow again. 
The people were required to bring the king one or more 




Fes 



of the yellow feathers each year, and it was from these 
that the splendid mantles were made. They were also 
used for helmets, for short capes, and for necklaces ; 
but none of these were so beautiful or so costly as the 
mantles. Only men of the highest rank could wear the 
helmets and capes. 

Although the English sailors shared with Captain 



IOI 




Cook the hospitality of the natives, they were very un- 
grateful. They broke the laws, and laughed at the 
most sacred customs of the Hawaiians, and soon the 
natives began to lire of their guests. Just then one of 
the English seamen died and was buried, and this proved 
that the English- 
men were not 
gods after all, for 
the gods could not m 
die. % 

Quarrels between the 
English and the natives 
grew more frequent 
every day, and when 
Captain Cook and his 
party finally sailed away, 
the Haw^aiians were very 
glad to see them go. But 
an accident at sea compelled them 
to come back, and this time they 
received a cold welcome. 

When they landed, the people 
ran aw T ay and hid, and they removed their boats to 
places safe from the English. 

Quarrels now grew worse and worse. The natives 
were accused by the sailors of stealing, and in a scuffle 
one of their chiefs w r as thrown to the ground, in re- 
venge, his friends, the following night, stole one of the 
boats belonging to the Discovery and broke it to pieces 
in order to secure the iron nails. When the captain 
heard of this theft, he determined to get the king on 



Feather Helmet 



102 

board and keep him there a prisoner until the Hawai- 
ians should restore the boat, for he did not know that it 
had been destroyed. While Captain Cook went ashore 
to invite the king to come on board, three boats, filled 
with armed men, waited in the bay, to keep away all 
ships from the other islands. The sailors were told 
that no Hawaiian boats must be allowed to pass to reach 
the king. 

Two chiefs, who did not know of this order, were 
rowing toward the shore when the English sailors fired 
on them, and one of them was killed. The other has- 
tened to the shore and told the king what had hap- 
pened. A great crowd at once gathered around the 
king to protect him with their spears and knives from 
Captain Cook and his companions. In the fight which 
followed, the sailors in the boats fired upon the Ha- 
waiians. This made the natives so angry that one oi 
them stabbed Captain Cook in the back, and he fell 
down dead. Several of the men who had gone ashore 
with him were also killed. The others were saved only 
by swimming to their boats. 

An officer on the Resolution saw through his glass the 
danger of the Englishmen, and fired with his cannon 
upon the natives, who were so frightened by the flash 
of light and the loud noise like thunder, that they ran 
away and hid themselves in the mountains. Bv that 
time seventeen Hawaiians had been killed, five of them 
being chiefs of the highest rank. 

Captain Cook's body was carried by priests into one 
of the sacred houses, high up on a steep cliff. The 
bones were carefully scraped of the flesh, tied up with 



103 

red feathers, as in the case of kings and chiefs, and 
then secretly buried. Many bundles of bones pre- 
pared in this way have been found in caves in dif- 
ferent parts of the Islands. 

After Captain Cook was killed, the English set fire 
to one of the villages, and burned up the sacred houses. 




Captain Cook's Monument 

A part of Captain Cook's bones were given up to the 
English officers who commanded the Resolution and 
the Discovery, and they were buried at sea. 

It was many years after Captain Cook's death before 
any other English ship visited the Hawaiian Islands. 



o^cx— 



XV. KAUAI AND THE KOULA FALLS 

WHEN Alice returned to Honolulu she rested 
there a few days and was then ready to start 
on the trip to Kauai which is called " The Garden 
Island." Kauai, the most northern of the Hawaiian 



104 

Islands, is almost circular in shape. It has but one 
high mountain. Wai-a-le-a'le. A great part of the is- 
land is covered with swamps and with rich fields of 
sugar cane. 

The trees found in greatest abundance are the o-lii a, 
the kou, the koa, and the ugly screw palm — a tree that 
seems to stand upon its uncovered roots, which grow 
from the trunk, several feet in length and bury them- 
selves in the earth. The gray-green leaves are slender, 
and the edges are toothed like the edge of a saw. 

The mountains of Kauai, while they are not so high 
as those of Maui and Hawaii, have been forced up in 
the same way, and there are great numbers of empty 
craters. Between the mountains are deep, fertile val- 
leys. There are no large towns on Kauai; only small 
villages, in which there are no hotels. 

The Hawaiians on Kauai were among the last to 
become civilized. They did not like to wear clothing, 
such as white men wear ; and they preferred their own 
religion, and their own doctors, or sorcerers. 

Kauai is famous for its horses which were introduced 
from America, and most of the natives are fearless 
riders. One feat of which they are very proud is, while 
riding at a gallop, to lean down to pick up a small coin 
from the ground. 

As the island of Kauai is somewhat out of the way, 
it is not often visited by travelers. The volcano of 
Kilauea, and the level tropical forests attract them to 
the island of Hawaii ; and the great crater of Haleakala 
draws them to Maui. But in Kauai there is not much 
of interest. 



105 

Before the steamship line was opened the journey 
was made in sailing vessels. It can now be made in 
less than twenty-four hours from Honolulu, but for- 
merly it took ten days, or longer. This was because the 
wind blew the ships away from, instead of toward, 
Kauai. 

The trade winds were not blowing when the Earles 
first arrived in Honolulu, and they had only the ordi- 
nary breezes and the hot south winds, which the natives 
call the Kona winds. 

While they were in Kauai, the latter part of March, 
the trades began to blow. They began very suddenly 
with a rushing, roaring sound, bending and twisting 
the palms, and rustling the leaves of the mango and 
umbrella trees. Clouds of dust filled the air along the 
traveled roads, and there was no lull, day or night, for 
nearly a week. 

Every one who could do so stayed indoors ; for it was 
hard even to walk in such a gale. The wind was not 
cold, but fresh and invigorating, for it had blown over 
long stretches of cool ocean. When it became calmer, 
it was as if there had been a great storm, although very 
little rain had fallen. All the dead boughs had been 
torn from the trees, and the dead leaves and grass had 
been blown away. It is in this way that the trees are 
stripped of their dead leaves. 

It was while they were in Kauai that Alice first saw 
the Hawaiians making a'zva. This is a drink of which 
they are fond, but which is very harmful to them. It 
is made from the root of the awa, a plant found in the 
forest. The root is thoroughly chewed by two or three 



io6 

people with strong teeth. Then it is put into a cala- 
bash, water is poured over it. and it is mixed and kneaded 
like dough. After this more water is added, and it is 
again mixed and strained. Before it is ready for use 
it looks like frothy soapsuds. It has a soothing effect, 
making those who drink it fall into a deep sleep and 
dream pleasant dreams : but it causes feebleness and 
aisease 

Formerly only chiefs and priests were allowed to 
drink awa. It has a burning, biting taste, somewhat 
like horse-radish. When a man once begins to drink 
awa or ka'va as it is also called, it is very hard for him 
to give up the habit After a time the eyes of an awa 
drinker are sure to grow very red, and the skin becomes 
thick and scaly. 

There were goats and deer in the forests, and on the 
mountain slopes :•: Kauai. Like the horses, they had 
been brought to Kauai by white men. and as thev 
seldom hunted and killed, they had multiplied very 
quickly. 

While they were in Kauai Alice visited the beautiful 
Falls of the Han-a-pe'pe, which is the largest river in that 
island. It is a very rough ride, and Mr. Earle at first 
thought that Alice ought not to attempt it : but she 
begged so hard, that he decided to let her go. She had 
become a ver expert rider by this time, for in Hawaii 
every one rides on horseback. People make nearly all 
their long journeys in this way, where they cannot go in 
boats, for there are very few roa ept the narrow 

paths, called trails. The horses are sure-footed and pick 
their way along very carefully among the rocks. 



107 

The children at the house where Mr. and Mrs. Earle 
were staying could catch and saddle the horses as easily 
and quickly as could the men, although they were no 
older than Alice. Alice learned the art from them, 
and was very proud of her skill. 

The ride to the falls tested her courage, for they often 
had to ford the rapid river, and the noise of the water 




Valley of Hanapepe River 



made her dizzy. Still, she held firmly to her saddle, and 
went bravely on. 

Much of the time they rode through the soft grass, 
without a trail to guide them. The forests through 
which they passed were full of beautiful song birds. 

The Hanapepe River, at the place where they first 
forded it, flows between two walls two thousand feet 
high and almost perpendicular. 

The Ko-u'la Falls are at the head of a gorge that widens 



io8 



into a valley, through which the river makes its way to 
the sea. Cold streams, clear as crystal, trickle and leap 
down the canon walls, which are covered with ferns, 
mosses, and other plants that love the cool, damp shade. 
The gorge is four miles long, and the river drops in a 
broad, silvery sheet over a ledge more than three hun- 
dred feet high. 




Koula Falls 



The water comes down from its great height with 
a deafening roar, filling the gorge with spray, like fine 
rain. The sun shines into the gorge only at noon, when 
it is overhead ; at all other times it is in deep shadow. 
All about it, the rocky ledges are thickly overgrown with 
the ohia, the candle nut, the banana, and the Eugenia, 
which has vivid scarlet blossoms. 

The ride had been long and rough, and they were all 
glad to rest and admire the beauty of the rushing water 



109 

and the tangled greenery that clothed the rocks which 
hemmed it in. 

After luncheon they set out to retrace the difficult path 
by which they had come. It was nearly dark when they 
reached their friend's house, for the twilight in the 
Hawaiian Islands is very short, and the night comes 
quickly when the sun has set. Alice was stiff and tired 
when her father lifted her off her horse, but she knew 
that a night's rest would refresh her, and felt that the 
beauties of the falls had more than repaid her for a 
little weariness. 



•o^o 



XVI. AN INTERESTING SCOTCH FAMILY 

AT Kauai Alice met a number of Scotch people, who, 
as she soon discovered, all belonged to the same 
family, and they had an interesting story to tell. A 
Scotchman and his wife, — Mr. and Mrs. Sinclair — with 
their children and grandchildren, had come from Scot- 
land to settle in New Zealand. Soon after their arri- 
val Mr. Sinclair had been drowned, and after that his 
wife, becoming dissatisfied with New Zealand, decided 
to look elsewhere for a home. So she fitted up her ship 
with every possible convenience, and prepared to sail 
about until she should find a home large enough for 
herself and her growing family. 

At last they landed at Hawaii, and the king, seeing 
at once that it would be an advantage to have such 



no 

ellent people to settle among his subjects, offered 
them the whole of the island of Xiihau for a very small 
sum of money. Mrs. Sinclair accepted the offer and 
at once began to settle down in her new home. Before 
long their housr was built, and the sheep and cattle 
which they had brought with them from New Zealand 
were peacefully grazing in the pastures. 

After a while Mrs Sinclair decided to move to Kauai, 
leaving her son and his wife to take care of the flocks 
and herds on Xiihau. At Kauai a new house was built 
on a flat mountain top, where it was cool and pleasant. 
The house was very large, with verandas all around iL 
Roses and passion flowers climbed to the roof. The 
broad lawns were planted with palms and orange trees 
and manv beautiful flowering shrubs. 

Here the mother and the children lived happily and 
peacefully together. The daughters taught the young 
Hawaiian girls how to cook and sew and keep house. 
They also taught them to read and write, which most 
of them learned very quickly. There were ofte: 
many as ten of these young Hawaiian girls living with 
the family at one time. They were clothed and fed and 
taught without charge, by their kind Scotch friends ; 
but many of them insisted on paying for their fa 
by working one day in the month for their teach e 

While the vere busy in the house, the broth 

re at work in the fields. They raised crops of various 
kinds, and cat: ep, and horses. They were good 

friends to the Hawaiians, who loved and respected 
them. 

Th e happy amongthemse i though they 



Ill 

lived so far away from other white people they were 
never dull or lonely. Whenever ships went back to 
Scotland and the United States, they sent for books 
and magazines and newspapers, so that they always 
knew what was going on in the world. 

Teachers came to live with the family, and taught 
them everything they wished to learn. They learned 
how to speak French and German, and they became 
good musicians. So, with their books, their music, and 
their work among the Hawaiians, their labors in the 
garden, and their exercise on horseback, time passed 
pleasantly, and they would not have changed their 
Hawaiian home for any other in the world. 

Mrs. Sinclair once went back to visit her relatives in 
Scotland, but she was glad to return to Kauai. She 
said it made her sad to see so many people who had 
not enough to eat, and scarcely enough clothes to keep 
them warm. In Kauai there was enough, and more 
than enough, for all ; and no one was ever hungry or 
knew what it was to suffer want. The good Scotch 
woman lived to be very old. She died and was buried 
on the land where she lived so long with her family ; 
and her children and grandchildren are living there to 
this day. 

XVII. THE MARKET 

ONE of the most interesting places that Alice vis- 
ited while she was in Honolulu was the fish mar- 
ket. On a Saturday afternoon, which was the best time 



112 

to go, she went with her father and mother, not only 
to see the strange things that were bought and sold, 
but also to watch the people. The market was their 
great place of meeting, and they gathered there from 
far and near. 

Both men and women were dressed in their best 
clothes. The poorer men wore suits of white or blue 
cotton, with straw hats bound with wreaths oi yellow 
flowers, and yellow garlands around their necks. The 
richer men were dressed in pure white duck, and, 
instead of flowers, their leis were of peacock feathers. 
These are very costly, and none but the well-to-do 
Hawaiians can afford to wear them. The women were 
in holok hite, blue. pink, and green, and they, too, 

wore a great many leis. 

Many _ people from the plantations had come 

to market on horseba The horses were tied to 

racks near by. They were poor, half-starved creatures. 
for the Hawaiians are not very kind to animals, except 
to their pet dogs and pigs. They ride their horses at a 
gallop, no matter how lame and sick they may be, and 
they never curry or feed them well. If any one should 
tell them how cruel such treatment is, they would only 
laugh and say that it is silly to care so much about a 
horse, which does not cost much and could be easily re- 
placed if it should die. The market house was a wooden 
building, rather gray and weather-beaten. It was open 
on every side, with only the roof as a shelter from the 
rain. There were tables piled with fish, seaweed, and 
a kind of fresh-water weed of which the Hawaiians eat 
a great deal. The weeds were roiled into balls. 



H3 

Between the tables were narrow aisles, and these 
were crowded with people, bargaining and buying and 
selling, laughing and chattering. 

Alice had never seen so great a crowd at a market ; 
there were at least two thousand people moving about 
or stopping at the counters, whenever they caught 
sight of anything they especially wanted. 

There are not many birds, except mynahs, doves, and 




Honolulu Fish 



sparrows, in the groves around Honolulu, and these are 
all of a very sober color ; but the fish seem to make 
up in their brilliant hues what the birds lack. Some are 
of a very elegant form, and others are hideous and re- 
pulsive. Alice could scarcely bear to look at the ugly 
squid, which is not a fish, although it swims about in the 
water. The body is like a wrinkled seamy bag, with 
two dull eyes, and out of this bag extend long, writhing, 
twining arms that catch and hold whatever comes within 

KROl'l's HAWAII — S 



U4 

their reach. Some of the squids are several feet in 
length. As they lay upon the table in the market, the 
long arms or tentacles were twisted and knotted together 
in a tangled heap. The squid is of many bright colors, 
which deepen and fade and glow again while it is 
dying. 

Mr. Earle told Alice that the Hawaiians thought the 
squid a great delicacy, and ate it raw with their poi. 

One very large fish that Alice saw was of a pale rose 
color, and she could imagine how beautiful it must 
look, swimming among the coral, far down in the 
depths of the clear water. There was another of dark 
blue, with deep scarlet figures along its sides, like some 
sort of strange lettering, in which its name might have 
been written. Another, which her father told her was 
the sea cock, or ki'hi-ki'ki was striped with bands of 
brilliant yellow and black. Others were dotted and 
mottled, and were of pink, brown, green, and blue. 

Beside the fish, there were limpets and oysters, 
which were found among the coral ; sea urchins, covered 
with purple spines, and the ti 1 la, a great lobster without 
claws. 

In addition to the live fish in the market there were 
also baked and dried fish, which were sold tied up in 
ti leaves. 

Alice saw many Hawaiians eating raw fish, which 
some of them prefer to cooked fish. In former days 
even the priests and kings ate raw fish, and a good 
many Hawaiians still follow this custom. 

The market is not only a place where fish are bought 
and sold, but a place for the discussion of topics of gen- 



H5 

eral interest. Speeches are frequently made by Hawai- 
ian orators. Many of them speak with energy and 
feeling, and can persuade those who listen to them to do 
almost anything they advise. Sometimes the speeches 
are by ministers, for the Hawaiians are always ready to 
listen to a good sermon, although they do not always 
practice what they applaud and seem to approve. 

At other times, the speeches are political, that is, 
about the government. The speeches are always in 
Hawaiian, and so when Alice and her father stopped a 
moment to listen, they could not understand what was 
said ; but it amused them to watch the audience, who 
seemed to be very much pleased and excited. They 
clapped their hands and cried out in Hawaiian, to show 
that they agreed with what the speaker was saying. 

It was altogether the strangest market place that 
Alice had ever seen, with the throngs of people coming 
and going, the piles of colored fish, the garlands of 
flowers, and in the midst of all the orator and his 
audience." 



°X*o 



XVIII. SANDALWOOD 

WHILE they were in Honolulu Mr. Earle told 
Alice a great many stories about the Hawaiians, 
and what had been done to make their country rich 
and prosperous. Among other things he told her of 
the time when sandalwood had been used for money. 



n6 

Almost everv country has its own kind of money. 
Among civilized people it consists of copper, nickel, 
silver, or gold coin, and of paper notes which stand 
for gold and silver, for which the paper can be ex- 
changed at any time. This money, except that the 
coins are made of the same kind of metal, is not alike 
in anv two countries. Even the paper notes in one 
country differ from those in another. 

Uncivilized people use, instead of money, whatever 
articles thev value most. The Indians in Xorth Amer- 
ica former!" strings rf shells, called wampum ; and 
the people In Africa buy and sell with beads, wire, and 
colored cloth. 

The Hawaiians in the old days traded with sandal- 
d — a very fragrant wood from a small tree which 
grew everywhere in the Islands. 

Most of the sandalwood was taken to China and 
sold there to the Chinese, who carved and fashioned it 
into a great variety of beautiful things, — costly fans, 
boxes, cabinets, stools, and eh:: 

But the English and American traders often did not 
deal fairly with the Hawaiians, and made them give too 
much sandalwood in exchange for their goods. Thev 
gave the Hawaiians only eight or ten dollars for one 
hundred and thirty-three pounds of sandalwood, which 
was sold in China for ten times as much. 

In spite of the dishonesty of the white men, the 
Hawaiian kings and chiefs grew rich from the sale of 
sandalwood ; for all the land and all that grew thereon 
belonged to them, and the Islands at one time were 
covered with sandalwood trees. In return for the 



ii7 

wood, the traders gave the chiefs all sorts of fine Chi- 
nese silks, guns, powder and shot, and even large boats 
and schooners, in which they could sail long distances 
from one island to another. 

It took a great deal of sandalwood to carry on this 
trade, and now there are but few of these trees left 
in the Islands. Violent quarrels, in which men were 
wounded and killed, grew out of the trade, and many 
other evils were traced to it. 

The Haw r aiians who were sent to collect the wood 
were forced to leave their work, and the crops were 
neglected. There was no one to plant taro, or gather 
bananas, or catch fish, and food became so scarce that 
at length there came a famine, and a great many per- 
sons starved to death. 

Kamehameha the Great was at this time king of 
the Hawaiian Islands, and he was greatly beloved. 
Before his time each island had its own chief, but 
he conquered them all, and ruled over the whole 
group from 1795 to 18 19. The four Kamehamehas 
who ruled after him, from 18 19 to 1872, had many 
noble qualities, but they were fond of ease and in- 
temperate. 

When Kamehameha the Great saw his people starv- 
ing because food was so scarce, he would not let the 
men collect any more of the wood, but sent them, as 
well as the soldiers, back to their homes to take care of 
their crops. To encourage them, he himself dug and 
planted taro in. the fields, and for many years the piece 
of ground in which he worked was kept sacred, and it 
can still be pointed out. 






XIX. INSECTS 

ONE day Alice went with her mother and father to 
dine with some friends at Waikiki, and as she w 
leaving, her hostess handed her a small grass bas^c: 
filled with salted almonds 

When she vent to her room s;:r set the basket on the 
window sill, behind the door, and did not think of it 
again for several iays. When she went to get it the 
almonds seemed to be covered with a thick, brown, vel- 
vety cloth. She looked at it a little closer and saw that 
it was not t:loth, but hundreds of ants. They had found 
the oily almonds and were having a feast She had 
seen a good many ants running about, but she had never 
seen them collect in such great numbers 

Mr. Earle told her that the ants are a great pest, and 
that they sometimes undermine houses, and damage the 
shingles so that people are forced to use for their roofs 
slate or iron, into which the ants cannot bore. The ants 
in Hawaii are not as mischievous as the ants in Africa 
that march across the country in millions, eating ev 
thing in their way, and driving the people from their 
houses. Thev do not, like the ants in Australia and 
Africa, build great houses, shaped like sugar loaves; but 
they dig and burro. drs:roying the roots of plants and 
trees. 

While she was at Waikiki, Alice noticed a little 
heap of dust under the door leading into the drawing- 
room. It was dust that had been made by the car- 
penter bee. which bores into wood, ruining not only 
doors and wine lit chairs and tables, and all kinds 



ii9 

of furniture. It does not hurt the outside, but it bur- 
rows into the wood, where it cannot be seen, and hollows 
it out until it is little more than a thin shell. 

Fortunately, the carpenter bee does not often come 
into the house. It has not always lived in the Hawaiian 
Islands, but, like many other insects, has been brought 
there from abroad. It looks very much like the bumble- 
bee, except that it is a dark steel-blue, almost black ; 
and it darts about very quickly. It does not often sting, 
but causes a great deal of damage. It was brought to 
the Islands, first, in lumber that had been sent in ships 
from Oregon for building houses. 

At another time Alice saw running across the floor in 
her bedroom a hairy spider, with spreading legs that 
were fully three inches long. It crept into a hole and 
hid ; but she would not have killed it, even if it had 
not run away, for she knew that it was perfectly harm- 
less. It was far more frightened at the sight of her, 
than she was by it. 

There were centipedes also, — long, ugly insects, with 
a great many short legs, though not so many as a hun- 
dred, as the name suggests. 

The sting of the centipede is in the end of the tail. 
People are not often stung by centipedes, and the few 
who are stung usually recover. Stories to the contrary 
are not true. 

There were mosquitoes by the thousands. They came 
in great clouds on warm, still evenings, and they stung 
Alice's hands and face until they were covered with little 
scarlet spots. The people who live in Honolulu become 
used to them, and are not much annoyed by them. 



All the beds are hung th long curtains of net, without 
which no one could sleep. The first mosquito 
brought to Hawaii in th > : an English 

ship, the Wellx that had sailed to the Hawaiian 

Islands from Mexico. Mosquitoes :annot fly in a 
strong wind, and are not so troublesome when the 
trade winds are blowing, nor are they so active in the 
high lands, where it is cooler. There are not so man 
Hilo as at Honolulu, where the- ttracted bv the 

wet rice fields and the Chinese gardens with their canals, 
in which the eggs of the mosq v _:ed. 

The people in Honolulu use Persian insect powder, 
which numbs the mosquitoes. They fall to the ground, 
and are then swept up and destroyed. When the 
people sit upon their verandas they switch the mos- 
quitoes with a queer little switch made of long strands 
of horsehair, with a short handle of bone. The 

:ches are brought from China, where they are used 
: r the same purpc s 

Birds of several kinds and frogs en brought 

to Hawaii, in the hope that they might prey upon the 
mosquit: es 

0::e :>f the missionari ribed the night when the 

uitoes first appeared in Honolulu. They came in 
great clouds. The Hawaiians did not know what t 
were, and v. - much troubled bv their sharp stings 

No one could s the night the mission; 

up fanning hi- ind children so that they could 

rest, and they then fanned him and drove away the 
while he slept until morning. Thev did this until t: 
were aty ~nd to China for ne:- 



121 



At one time, all the roses in Honolulu were eaten up 
by a tiny black beetle, so small that it could hardly be 
seen. It came in plants that had been brought from 
Japan. It ate not only the flowers but the leaves also, 
and it killed the bushes. No roses could be raised, 
and the people were told that if the beetle was not de- 
stroyed, it would eat other plants and shrubs when the 




Rice Fields 



rose bushes were gone. It could not be caught, because 
it came out only at night when it was dark, and hid in 
the ground during the day. Every precaution was 
taken to keep the pest from spreading, no plants from 
Oahu being received on the other islands. At last 
means were found for killing the little beetle, so that 
now people again have roses blooming in their gardens. 
After the trouble with the rose beetle strict laws were 
passed forbidding any one to bring plants ashore until 



I 22 

they had been kept in a safe place for a time long 
enough to make certain that they contained no insects 
dangerous as a pest. 

— «XXoc — 

XX. CAPTAIN VANCOUVER 

IN the year 1792, thirteen years after Captain Cook 
had visited the Islands, another Englishman, Captain 
George Vancouver, arrived with two ships, the Discov- 
ery and the Chatham. 

He was a good man. and seeing that firearms caused 
disorder among the Hawaiians, he refused to sell them. 
Instead, he gave them many different kinds of trees, 
plants, and vines, and the seeds of foreign vegetables. 

Vancouver left for California, but returned in 1795 
with a present of cattle for Kamehameha I., whom he 
then met for the first time. 

The king went to visit the ship in great state, wear- 
ing his feather mantle and helmet, and accompanied by 
a fleet of eleven canoes. With him were his wife and 
his favorite adviser John Young. 

John Young was an American sailor who had come 
to the Islands three vears before. His captain had 
treated the natives with great cruelty, and in revenge 
all the sailors found on shore were massacred, except 
John Young and Isaac Davis, who were detained as 
prisoners, until the American vessel left. 

Thev were then kindly treated and raised to the rank 
of chiefs, but were forbidden to leave the Islands. After 
a while they became so attached to the country that they 



123 

did not wish to leave, and they lived in the Islands for 
the rest of their lives. 

They proved themselves worthy of the king's kind- 
ness, gave him good advice, and taught the Hawaiians 
many useful arts. 

John Young spoke to Captain Vancouver and told 
the king what he said in reply, and soon they were all 
on good terms. The king gave Vancouver many valu- 
able presents. Among them were four helmets of 
costly yellow feathers ; ninety of the fattest and larg- 
est swine that could be found, and great quantities of 
bananas and mangoes and other fruit. In return Van- 
couver gave the king five cows and three sheep — all 
the animals he had left. 

Vancouver and Kamehameha became great friends. 
The king very soon found that Vancouver did not want 
to cheat him, or take the country from him, and he 
entertained him in every way to please and amuse him. 
He had a sham battle between the best of his warriors, 
and he made them show the Englishman how far they 
were able to throw their spears and the stones from 
their slings. 

Vancouver in return showed the king over his ship, 
and, in the evening, he gave a grand display of fire- 
works. This was a fine sight, and the king was delighted 
with it. 

Vancouver made three visits, and each time brought 
with him sheep, goats, and cattle, as presents to the 
king. The last time he came his seamen helped Kame- 
hameha build the first ship he had ever owned. Before 
this, the king went from island to island in a canoe. 



124 

It was finer and larger than the ordinary canoes, but 
still it was not so good as the new ship, of which Kame- 
hameha was very proud, and which he named the Bri- 
tannia, in honor of Great Britain, the country from which 
Captain Vancouver had come. 

It was Vancouver who first spoke to Kamehameha 
about God, and he also told him that the tabus were 
foolish and cruel, and that the priests taught falsehoods 
which did the Hawaiians a great deal of harm. Kame- 
hameha knew that Vancouver was a good, wise man, 
and all this made a deep impression upon him. 

Vancouver told Kamehameha that when he went 
back to his own country he would ask the English king 
to send some one to the Hawaiian Islands to teach the 
Christian religion. Mr. Ellis was the man chosen for 
this work, but by the time he arrived King Kameha- 
meha I. was dead. 

XXI. THE FIRST MISSIONARIES 

WHILE Alice was in Honolulu she heard much 
about the missionaries. Nearly all the schools 
have been founded by them, and they have done much 
to improve the laws of the country. 

The first missionaries were from New England, and 
this is how it came about : 

At a very early date ships from New England visited 
the Hawaiian Islands. Their crews traded with the 
natives, giving them furniture, guns, and clothing, in 
exchange for sandalwood. Later they came into the 



125 

harbor at Honolulu only to get water and fresh supplies 
of food. Then they went on their voyage to the colder 
regions to fish for whales. 

The Hawaiians from the first were eager to embark 
on such voyages, and they proved themselves good 
sailors, although the change from their warm climate 
to that of the cold regions they visited was very great. 
It was in this way that the New England people first 
learned about the Hawaiians. 

Nearly a century ago, several young Hawaiians were 
taken to the United States, and among them a youth 
named O-bo-o-ki'ah. He was very clever, and those 
who met him became interested in him, and begged 
him to stay in the United States to obtain an education 
and then to return to the Islands to teach the Hawai- 
ians. Obookiah and four of his friends remained. 
They attended a school in Cornwall, Connecticut, and 
learned very rapidly. Obookiah himself, however, never 
returned to his home. He died before he had finished 
his studies. 

In the year before Obookiah died, a number of Amer- 
icans sailed for the Hawaiian Islands in a ship called the 
Tliaddeus. There were two clergymen with their wives, 
five teachers, and three of the Hawaiians, who had been 
at school with Obookiah. Their names were Ka-nu'i, 
Ho'pu, and Ho no-li'i. It was necessary for them to 
accompany the Americans, who could not speak or 
understand the language of the Hawaiians. 

It was in the year 1819 that these men — the first 
missionaries — sailed from Boston to Hawaii. We can 
realize how long ago this was when we remember that 



at that time there were hardly any people living in the 
great Western states. Chicago was but a cluster of log 
houses. There were no railways, no telegraph or tele- 
phone. People traveled in stagecoaches, or on horse- 
back, and where there are now towns and cities, the 
Indians hunted and made their camps. It was many 
years before people went to California, across the 
plains, to hunt for gold. 

There were no steamships then, and men crossed the 
ocean in sailing vessels. In those days it took many 
months to make the voyage to Hawaii. The vessel 
had to sail down the eastern ::as: :f our own country 
and South America, through the Straits of Magellan, 
and across the Pacific. 

It have taken a great while, even if the ship 

had gone straight on her course, but this rarely hap- 
pened. Sometimes the wind was in the wrong direc- 
tion,, and blew the ship out of her course : sometimes 
it died entirely away, and then the ship stood perfectly 
still — becalmed. At such a time it was apt to be very 
hot, and there was no shelter anywhere except in the 
shadow of the sails. Often there were terrible storms 
— especially near the Straits of Magellan. 

The ships were crowded and uncomfortable ; and the 
passengers often had to cook their own food. This 
made the voyage very hard for the wives of the mis- 
sionaries. 

The 77. v did not sail to Honolulu, which was 

then only a village of grass huts, but first touched at 
Ko-ha'la, a district in the northwestern part of the island 
of Hawaii. One of the officers went ashore and came 



127 

back with the news that the great Kamehameha was dead, 
and that his son had been made king. The tabus had 
been broken, and the people, having given up their idols 
and burned the temples, were without a religion. There 
was peace everywhere. 

The people in New England from time to time re- 
ceived news of the Hawaiian Islands from the returning 
Sailors, but the party on the Tliaddeus now learned for 




Sailing toward Hawaii 

the first time of the death of Kamehameha, and of the 
burning of the temples and idols. The last fact was 
good news for the missionaries, for it was sure to make 
much easier the work which they hoped to do. They 
now set sail for Kai-Wa, a village in Hawaii, where the 
new king lived. 

When they reached Kailua two of the missionaries, 
Mr. Bingham and Mr. Thurston, went on shore, with 
Hopu as a guide. The king, Kamehameha II., received 
them kindly, when they told him that they had come to 



128 



teach the people a new religion, and that they hoped 
he would let them live in the Islands. He did not 
answer them at once, but took time to think the matter 
over. He. accepted an invitation to go on board the 
Tliaddeits to dine with them and their wives. One of 
the chiefs was dressed in European clothes which he 

had obtained from 
one of the sailors, 
but the king wore 
a long mantle of 
green silk, a neck- 
lace of beads, and 
a wreath of yellow 
feathers on his 
head. 

When the king 
came on board 
the Thaddeus he 
brought his family 
with him. This he 
would not have 
done if he had not 
been favorably impressed by the missionaries and felt 
sure that they intended no harm. 

He waited a week before giving his answer, and dur- 
ing that time he consulted with John Young. Mr. 
Young told him the missionaries had come only to do 
good, so the king told them they might live in the 
Islands for one year. Four of them, Mr. and Mrs. 
Thurston and Mr. and Mrs. Holman, were to stay at 
Kailua, and the rest were to go to Honolulu. They 




Mr. Bingham 



129 

were given a small grass hut to live in, and the king 
treated them very kindly. 



0X^0 



XXII. MORE ABOUT THE MISSIONARIES 



THE missionaries who went to Honolulu did not 
fare so well as those who staid at Kailua with 
the king. The king's real 
name was Li-ho-li'ho, but 
he was called Kamehameha 
II. He succeeded the great 
Kamehameha, but only 
reigned five years. Both 
he and his wife, Emma, 
died of measles while on 
a visit to England. The 
bodies of the king and 
queen were brought back 
from England in splendid 
coffins covered with crimson 
velvet, and a great funeral 
was held, which lasted for 
several weeks. 

The governor of Oahu at that time was a chief named 
Boki, of whom we shall learn more in another story, 
and neither he nor his wife Liliha wished to befriend 
the Americans. They did not wish to change their 
way of living, and would have liked to send the mis- 
sionaries away, but did not dare to do so against the 

KROUT'S HAWAII — 9 




Kamehameha II. 



130 

king's command. So they made them as uncomfort- 
able as they could, and were as rude as they dared 
to be, thinking that this would induce the missiona- 
ries to leave. 

Honolulu was not then as it is now. In place of 
the beautiful gardens and parks now found there, and 
the trees and plants which have been brought from 
nearly all the warm countries in the world, there 
were only a few cocoanut trees, and the kou and the 
koa and the kukui in the cooler lands on the mountain 
slopes. Around Honolulu there were dry, bare plains, 
where the dust rose in clouds, for the trade winds blew 
then, just as they do now. 

Boki and Liliha allowed Mr. Bingham, the missionary 
who had come to Honolulu, to build his grass hut on 
one of these dusty plains, where there was neither water 
nor wood for several miles beyond. Mr Ruggles and 
Mr. Whitney went to Kauai, where they had been in- 
vited by the king. 

In the fall, Kamehameha II. left Kailua and came 
to Honolulu with his family and court, and with Mr. 
and Mrs. Thurston. 

Although the Hawaiians had given up their idols, 
and verv few of them were as much afraid of their 
priests as they had been, the missionaries did not find 
it easy to teach them, for people cannot give up at 
once the belief taught them by their fathers. They 
cannot help being a little afraid of the things that 
they have been taught to fear as harmful, and wrong 
thinking of this sort is often accompanied by bad con- 
duct. But considering how they had been deceived by 



i3i 

their priests, and how little they knew of what was 
really right, there were many of 'the Hawaiians who 
were good and noble. This was especially true of the 
women, although the laws oppressed them very cruelly. 

The Hawaiians had been taught not to value human 
life, for the kings or chiefs could put to death any one 
who displeased them, or any one that the priest selected 
for sacrifice. It was hard to make them understand 
how wicked and cruel this was. Many still believed 
secretly in the old religion. They told the people who 
wished to do as the missionaries advised, that their own 
priests could put evil spells upon them, and make their 
Hawaiian gods punish them. 

The chiefs despised all that were not of their own 
rank, but they respected the missionaries, because they 
were white men, and because they were educated. Lit- 
tle as they themselves knew, the Hawaiians had great 
respect for learning in others. This was why they 
feared and obeyed their priests who pretended to know 
a great deal that no one else could find out. 

The missionaries taught the people the Christian 
religion, and they opened schools to teach them to 
read and write. 

The first schoolhouse was a large grass hut, and the 
pupils were called together, not by ringing a bell, but 
by blowing on a conch shell, which made a very loud 
sound that could be heard at a great distance. 

The pupils were of all ages. Besides the children 
there were men and women in the bloom of youth and 
others who were old and gray. It was not necessary to 
force them to go to school, for they were all very 



132 

anxious to learn. When the conch shell sounded 
they came pouring out of their huts to the grass 
schoolhpuse. There were so many pupils that they 
could not all be taught at once. They had to be 
divided into classes, and some came at one hour, and 
some at another. They had no desks or seats, but 
sat on mats, on the ground, dressed in their mantles 
of red, blue, and green tapa, and they wore wreaths 




Hawaiian Pupils 

of flowers on their heads and around their necks, just 
as they do to-day. 

The Hawaiians who came to the missionary schools 
were so anxious to be taught that they carried about 
with them everywhere the little books that the mission- 
aries made for them. They had never before had a 
written language. There are not so many sounds in the 
Hawaiian language as in our own, and the alphabet 
which the missionaries made had but twelve letters. 

Two years after they came, the missionaries set up 



133 



a printing press, and printed a spelling book of eight 

pages in Hawaiian words, but with letters like our own. 

An author who has written an interesting book about 

the old Hawaiians says the people were so eager to 

learn the new and wonderful art of reading and writing 

that, at one time, nearly the whole population went to 

school. With this 

great love for 

learning, it is not 

surprising that 

now there are few 

people in Hawaii 

who cannot read 

and write. The 

people are very 

proud of this fact, 

as indeed they 

have a right to 

be. 

When the year 
the king had 
granted to the 
missionaries had 

expired, he found that they had been so useful to his 
people that he was glad to have them stay as long as 
they pleased. When the American missionaries had 
been in Honolulu two years, the English missionary, 
whom Vancouver had promised to send, reached the 
Islands. His name was William Ellis, and he and the 
Americans became great friends and worked together 
very peaceably. Their object was the same, — to be 




Mr. Ellis 



*34 



helpful to the people and teach them to live better lives , 
and each did what he could to help the other. 

Since the American missionaries welcomed Mr. Ellis 
and his wife, the Hawaiians did so likewise, for they 
had great respect for their teachers. But when they 
came to know Mr. Ellis, they loved him for his own 

sake. He did not 
remain long in 
Hawaii. His wife 
became very ill, 
and he had to re- 
turn to England 
for her health. 
During his stay he 
went all over the 
Islands with the 
Americans and 
wrote a long ac- 
count of what he 
saw. This was 
published, and the 
people in England 
thus learned a 
great deal about the country. He also translated and 
published some of the Hawaiian poetry. 

The Hawaiians are very fond of poetry ; but their 
verse is not like ours. It is musical, but usually 
mournful. Before they knew how to write, they com- 
mitted their poetry to memory. Parents taught their 
children and grandchildren, and in this way it was 
preserved. Kapiolani and other Hawaiian queens 




Mrs. Ellis 



135 

were poets. Their poems, after they became Chris- 
tians, were much like the psalms in the Bible. This is 
one of the poems which Mr. Ellis translated. It was 
composed at the time of the death of a great chief, and 
is called a dirge : 

" Alas ! alas ! dead is my chief. 
Dead is my lord and my friend. 
My friend in the season of famine, 
My friend in the time of drought, 
My friend in my poverty, 
My friend in the rain and the wind, 
My friend in the heat and the sun, 
My friend in the cold from the mountain, 
My friend in the storm, 
My friend in the calm, 
My friend in the eight seas. 
Alas! alas! gone is my friend 
And no more will return. 11 



o^o 



XXIII. THE OLD MISSION HOUSE 

NOT far from the stone church in Honolulu was 
an old, weather-beaten frame house. It was 
two stories high, with. three windows above and three 
below. Around the front door was a little latticed 
porch with several steps leading down to the front 
walk. Like all the older houses in Honolulu, it had 
no chimney. There was something rather melancholy 
about it, as if scores of children had once lived there, 
and grown up and moved away into homes of their 
own, leaving the old house to strangers. Alice felt 
sure it must have a history, and when she asked her 



136 

mother about it, Mrs. Earle told her the following 
story : 

It was the first house that was ever built in Hono- 
lulu. When the missionaries came to Honolulu, they 
lived in grass houses, like those of the Hawaiians. 
These houses were cool and comfortable in warm 
weather, but they were not well lighted, and were not 
divided into rooms, so that all the members of the 




The Old Mission House 

family, and sometimes several families, were crowded 
together in one room. This was a great trial to the 
men and women who had come straight from their 
comfortable New England homes. 

Many friends in Boston were interested in the mis- 
sionaries, and pitied them for the hardships they had 
to endure. They had already sent them clothes and 
books and other useful things. But now they decided 
to send them a house ! Of course, it was not a house 



137 

put together, all ready to be occupied, because no 
ship could have carried it. But it was the frame- 
work, the sills, rafters, and shingles for the roof, the 
weather-boarding, doors, and windows. All this was 
very carefully packed and put down into the hold 
of the ship. 

No one ever dreamed that when the frame for the 
house had been brought so far there would be any 
further trouble. But something happened that no 
one had expected. When the house arrived, the 
king, Liholiho, or Kamehameha II., would not let 
the missionaries put it up. Grass houses had been 
good enough for his people, and he thought they 
were good enough for the missionaries. He resented 
the idea that the people in Boston considered grass 
huts as unfit for their friends. So, when the mission- 
aries asked whether they might put up the house, he 
said : " My father never allowed a foreigner to build a 
house in this country except for the king." 

The missionaries were much disappointed and, after 
a while, they again asked permission to put up their 
house. But the king only refused more decidedly than 
at first. Yet they did not give up hope, for they knew 
by this time that he often changed his mind. So two 
of them went, with their wives, to call upon him, and 
for the third time he refused their petition. 

But just as he was about to leave them, one of the 
ladies went up to him and told him, as best she could, 
— for she did not speak his language well — how- 
hard it was for people used to New England houses 
to find comfort in the grass huts which lacked so many 



138 

things they were accustomed to. She spoke so gently 
yet so earnestly that the king saw in a flash how much 
these women had given up, — comfortable homes, friends, 
and pleasures, — and all for no other reason than to 
make his people happier. Weak and intemperate as 
the king was, he could not help seeing how much 
better his people were since the coming of the mis- 
sionaries, and how much easier it was to govern the 
country. So he answered that on his return from 
Maui, where he was about to go on a visit, they 
might put up their house. 

But, even after the king had given his consent, the 
missionaries were anxious lest he should again change 
his mind. 

The king and the chiefs were in the habit of com- 
ing to the missionaries' homes as often as they liked. 
They stayed to dine with them frequently ; and the 
women never knew how much food to prepare or 
how many guests to expect. A few days before he 
left for Maui, the king and several chiefs sat at the 
missionaries' table, and he was reminded of his con- 
sent that the house should be built. Again he said, 
"Yes, you may build," and after that they thought 
the matter settled. 

But there were many people in Honolulu who dis- 
liked the missionaries. They liked to drink and gam- 
ble with the king, and it annoyed them when he spent 
his time with men and women who were not afraid 
to tell him how wicked and harmful it was to lead 
an intemperate life. These people now tried to per- 
suade the king that the missionaries were spies ; that 



139 

they did not mean to build a house, but a fort ; and 
that they intended to fill the cellar with guns and 
powder and shot. 

The king feared that this might be true. He him- 
self had a fort on Punchbowl, the mountain back of 
Honolulu ; and he directed that the cannon should be 
turned so that it could be fired at the missionaries 




Old Hawaiian Fort 



the moment they began to carry their arms into the 
cellar. But when, after waiting some time, the king 
saw no sign of any such plot, he was at last con- 
vinced that the missionaries wished him no harm, 
and were as much his friends as they had ever 
been. 

When the house was finished, the three families of 
missionaries in Honolulu moved into it, and they lived 
under its roof for years. When they were settled 



140 

and everything was in order, the king put on his 
finest clothes and came with his family on a visit. 
He went all over the house, upstairs and down- 
stairs, and was greatly delighted with everything 
he saw r . At last, just before leaving, he said, "I 
wish the people in the United States would send me 
a house three stories high ! " As he was king, he 
thought his house ought to be at least one story 
higher than that of the missionaries. 

Mrs. Thurston, who was one of the first women to 
live in the house, said that the board floors, the doors, 
and the windows with glass in them, were considered 
very wonderful by the Hawaiians, and the king was 
especially pleased with the wall paper, which was pink, 
with delicate gilt vines. 

Besides the three families, the house was always 
crowded with visitors : foreigners who visited the 
Islands, the king and his family, and the chiefs and 
their families. Often as many as fifty people stayed 
for dinner, and it was necessary to set the table three 
times for each meal. Fortunately, food was cheap, 
and, such as it was, there was enough of it. The 
king and the chiefs also sent the missionaries presents 
of fruit, and taro, and pigs. But the missionaries' 
wives had to do a good deal of the cooking. The 
Hawaiian girls who lived with them were not of much 
assistance. 

When Mrs. Judd came, she said that the mission- 
aries and their wives looked "very thin and care- 
worn." And it was not much wonder, for the women 
had to sew, and teach, and cook dinners for fifty 



141 

guests several times a week. Mrs. Judd said that in 
addition to all this, Mrs. Bingham had been forced 
to make the king twelve shirts with ruffled bosoms 
and a whole suit of broadcloth. 

But this was not all the trouble that they had. 
The water in the wells was salty, and their clothes 
had to be taken to the streams to be washed. This 
was done by pounding them with stones, which soon 
wore them out. They would have worn out fast enough 
without being pounded to pieces, and the missionaries 
and their wives were sometimes at a loss to know 
what to do. They patched and mended, and made 
their clothes last as long as possible. But it was easier 
to mend their clothes than their shoes, which also wore 
out very quickly. 

Five years after the missionaries finished the house, 
it was attacked by some drunken sailors from an 
American ship. 

To save the people from becoming drunkards, the 
missionaries had persuaded the regent to make a 
law to punish severely any one who sold them liquor. 
The captain of the ship wanted this law abolished. 
It was while the king was still too young to reign 
and Bold was governor of Oahu. Bad as he was, he 
would not at first agree to this. Then the sailors 
came ashore and attacked several of the houses. 
They blamed the missionaries for the law ; and they 
went to the mission house, as it was called, and did 
much damage before they were driven off. 

Mr. and Mrs. Bingham and their child would have 
been badly hurt and perhaps killed, if the Hawaiian 



142 

chiefs had not come to their rescue and defended 
them very bravely. 

Alice was more than ever interested in the old mission 
house after she had heard this story, and she hoped 
that the people of Honolulu would never allow it to 
be torn down. 

XXIV. THE STORY OF BOKI AND LILIHA 

AFTER the death of Kamehameha II. his brother, 
Kau-i'ke-a-o-u'li, was chosen king and called 
Kamehameha III. Ka-a-hu-ma'nu, widow of Kame- 
hameha the Great, was appointed ku-Jii ua int'i, or 
regent; that is, she was to rule until the young prince 
was old enough to reign, and then she was to be his 
adviser for life ; and she also had the power to veto 
his acts. 

Now there was a handsome young chief named Bold, 
who was governor of Oahu, and because he was so 
powerful, Kaahumanu unwisely placed the young king 
in his care. But both Boki and his beautiful wife 
Liliha were very wicked. They never became Chris- 
tians, but obeyed the old priests, and they were idle and 
extravagant. 

Both Boki and his wife were opposed to the queen 
regent, and with other chiefs they plotted against the 
young king and tried to get control of Hawaii. Every 
day Kaahumanu had cause to regret her step in placing 
the young king under the care of such guardians as Boki 
and Liliha ; for instead of setting him a good example 



H3 

and leading him to a virtuous life, they surrounded him 
with the most wicked men and led him to form many 
bad habits. 

Boki and Liliha lived in such luxury and extrava- 
gance that soon they had used up all the sandalwood in 
Hawaii, and none was left to pay the debts. A great 
deal of trouble and misery followed. The people were 
the greatest sufferers, and their condition grew from bad 
to worse. Disorder prevailed, and it became necessary 
to pass laws to punish theft, murder, gambling, and 
drunkenness. Boki and Liliha did not like the laws, 
and they refused to obey them. 

. But when. all the sandalwood was gone, Boki himself 
became poor, and when some one told him of an island 
to the south where tons of sandalwood were waiting to 
be gathered, all his friends' warnings could not keep 
him home. Two of the king's brigs, the Kamehamelia, 
and the Becket, were fitted up, and with one hundred 
and nine men, including many of his wicked companions, 
he sailed from Oahu in search of wealth. 

The Kamehamelia, on which Boki sailed, touched at 
one island, where it staid two days, but that was the 
last ever heard of it. After great suffering among the 
crew, the Becket made her way back to Hawaii, and of 
all those who had sailed with Boki but twenty returned. 

During Boki's absence his wife Liliha ruled over 
Oahu as governor. When she heard of her husband's 
disappearance, she resolved to fill the fort with armed 
men, so that she could keep the queen regent, Kaahu- 
manu, from taking the little prince, or having any 
authority over Oahu. 



144 

But another great chief, Ki-nau', a woman who had 
become a Christian, heard of the plot and revealed it to 
the leading chiefs. As they did not want to fight 
and shed blood, they urged Liliha's father to talk with 
her. Among the Hawaiians, disobedience to parents 
was the greatest of all crimes, and Liliha, bad as she 
was, dared not refuse her father's demand that she 
should give up the fort. 

When the young prince became king, Liliha still had 
much influence over him, and when at last Kaahumanu 
died, everybody feared that Liliha would be chosen to 
take her place. She herself, indeed, had every reason 
to expect It. This would, however, have been a great 
disaster to the country, for Liliha objected to all the 
reforms. Her election would have meant the closing 
of schools and churches, a return to all the barbarous 
practices, and probably war. 

The king appointed a day for an outdoor meeting of 
his people, at which he was to announce his decision. 
Thousands came, — among them Kinau and her friends 
and Liliha and her followers. 

When the king arrived, Kinau saluted him and said 
gravely, " We cannot war with the word of God be- 
tween us." 

It is not known what the king replied, but he made a 
long speech in which he told the Hawaiians that he was 
no longer a prince, but their king, whose right it was to 
rule. Then they waited, Liliha and her friends very 
confident, and Kinau, and those who were with her, sad 
and heavy-hearted. But the young king, after pausing 
a moment, called out in a clear voice, " Know, all ye 



H5 

people, that I, the king, hereby appoint Kinau as 
kuhina nui." 

Then a shout of joy went up from the multitude, 
while Liliha and her disappointed followers turned 
away in anger, for they knew that now their power was 
at an end. The young king might still be friendly with 
them, but, like so many of his people, he was weak and 
indolent, and content to leave the ruling of the kingdom 
to Kinau. As Kinau was an able woman, fit to rule 
and anxious for the good of her people, the choice was 
a wise one. 

When asked why he had chosen Kinau as regent, the 
king answered simply, " Very strong is the kingdom of 
God." 

XXV. "THE LIFE OF THE LAND" 

ALICE often thought of this story. Since the time 
of Boki and Liliha (about 1830) great changes 
have taken place in Honolulu. It has become a city ; 
there are no more grass houses, and the Hawaiians use 
silver money. Alice herself had handled many of these 
coins. They were the size of American silver dollars, 
half dollars, twenty-five-cent pieces, and ten-cent pieces. 
On each coin was the head of King Kalakaua, in whose 
reign (1874- 1 891) the money was first made. Around 
the edge of the coin were the words in Hawaiian : "IP a 
man ke e f a o ka ai'na i ka po f uo" which mean, " The 
life of the land is perpetuated by righteousness." Alice 
understood this motto better after she had heard the fol- 
lowing story: 

KROUT'S HAWAII — IO 



146 

After Liliha was sent away in disgrace, and Kinau 
became the regent, the country did not immediately 
grow better. Indeed, for a time, it seemed to grow 
worse. The people had seen so much wickedness, and 
had grown so used to drinking and gambling, that it 
was no easy matter to get rid of their bad habits. 

There lived in Honolulu, at that time, an English- 
man named Captain Richard Charlton, who was very 
friendly with Liliha, and, like her, objected to the mis- 
sionaries and their schools and churches. He claimed 
a large tract of land that belonged to the children of a 
chief. This he declared the king had given to him. 
For thirteen years he had said nothing of his claim, 
and during that time many houses had been built on 
the land, and it had greatly increased in value. The 
king, Kamehameha III., denied that he had ever given 
the Englishman the land, since it had never been his to 
give, and a long quarrel followed, which, it seemed for 
a while, would never be settled. 

By this time the Catholics in France had sent their 
priests out to the Hawaiian Islands to found churches 
and schools. Both the king and Kinau were unfriendly 
to the priests, because they reminded them of the native 
priests who had formerly ruled the Islands with selfish- 
ness and cruelty. 

Captain Charlton, who was the English consul, 
helped the French priests, not from kindly feeling 
toward them, but simply because he knew this would 
displease Kinau. It must be confessed that in this 
matter of persecuting the priests Kinau was unjust, and 
nothing that the missionaries could say or do altered 



147 

her purpose to keep her subjects from becoming Catho- 
lics. She made the Catholics work on the roads, and 
even shut them up in prison. 

Captain Charlton became more and more friendly 
with Liliha, and this made matters worse. 

When the quarrel grew so fierce that the king could 
do nothing more, he sent an American, Mr. Richards, 
to the United States, England, and France to ask 
those countries to help him. For by this time, Captain 
Charlton had gone so far as to say that the Hawaiian 
Islands really belonged to England. 

An English gentleman, Sir George Simpson, who 
was a friend of the king, and a Hawaiian, Ha-a-li-li'o, 
the king's secretary, went with Mr. Richards on his 
errand for the king. 

They were told in Washington that our country 
would defend the king against Charlton, and the 
queen also made it known that England did not want 
the Islands. France, at that time, was not quite so 
friendly. 

When Captain Charlton learned that Mr. Richards 
had gone to England, he followed him. He went by 
the way of Mexico, where he met Lord George Paulet, 
an English naval officer who was in one of the ports 
with his ship, the Carysfort. 

Lord Paulet was a cousin of Mr. Alexander Simpson, 
whom Captain Charlton had made consul, in his place, 
while he was gone. Captain Charlton persuaded Cap- 
tain Paulet that the Hawaiian Islands belonged to Eng- 
land, and Captain Paulet determined to claim them for 
the queen. 



148 



The kin^ had a very wise friend, fortunately, who 
knew just what to do, and who gladly helped him in his 
great trouble. This was Dr. Judd, who, with his wife, 
had gone out to Honolulu, many years before, as a mis- 
sionary and physician. Dr. Judd was as brave as he 
was wise. When the Carysfort came into the harbor 
of Honolulu, Lord Paulet sent for the king to come 

to him, instead of calling 
upon the king, as it was 
his place to do. 

The king did not go, 
but sent Dr. Judd to rep- 
resent him. Lord Paulet 
would not talk with Dr. 
Judd. He ordered the 
king to give up the land 
that Charlton had claimed, 
and made other arbitrary 
demands. The ship car- 
ried cannon and powder 
and balls, and Lord Paulet 
told the king if he did not obey him, he would fire 
upon the town. 

Dr. Judd knew that the king had few guns and not 
many soldiers, and was no match for Lord Paulet. If 
the cannon were fired, a great many helpless people 
would be wounded and killed. More than this, he knew 
that when Queen Victoria should hear what Lord Paulet 
had done, she would take the king's part. So Dr. Judd, 
after careful consideration, advised the king to yield for 
the time being to Lord Paulet, and to seek redress from 




Kamehameha III. 



149 

the queen. The king, acting on this advice, agreed to 
surrender the Islands under protest, and appeal to the 
queen for justice. 

Lord Paulet came ashore, took down the Hawaiian 
flag, and put the English flag in its place ; but when the 
poor, helpless king went on board the Carysfort to visit 
him, Lord Paulet made so many further insolent de- 
mands, that at last the king said, " I will not die piece- 
meal ; they may cut off my head at once. I will give 
no more." 

Then the king, worn out with sorrow and anxiety, 
departed to the island of Maui. Dr. Judd stayed in 
Honolulu, and he took all the king's important papers 
and hid them in the royal tomb. He knew that no one 
would ever think of looking for them in such a gloomy 
place. Dr. Judd took it upon himself to write to Queen 
Victoria and to the President of the United States in 
behalf of the king; and to keep the matter secret, he 
hid himself in the tomb and used one of the coffins for 
his writing table. 

When Queen Victoria received the letter telling of 
Lord Paulet's doings, she was very angry. Immediately 
she sent to Honolulu an English ship, the Dublin, com- 
manded by Admiral Thomas, a brave English officer, 
who had orders to set matters right. 

The king returned from Maui, and Admiral Thomas 
went ashore to see him, and treated him with the 
greatest respect. When he told the king that he was 
sent by Queen Victoria to take down the English flag 
and put back the Hawaiian flag, both king and people 
were filled with joy and gratitude. The next day 



i;o 

Monday, July 51, 1843. was chosen for the flag 
raising. 

It was a beautiful, sunny day, without a cloud in the 
sky. The king and all the people gathered in an open 
plain, around the flagstaff. With the king and the 
premier and the court were the men and officers from 
the three English ships then in the harbor, the Dublin, 
the Hazard^ and the Carysfort. When the people had 
all assembled, and the English sailors were drawn up 
in line, the Hawaiian flag was raised. As it shook 
itself free, and its white and crimson bars floated before 
the breeze, the cannon were fired, and there was great 
rejoicing. Lord Paulet, however, felt deeply mortified 
to see the flag, which he had taken so much trouble to 
pull down, put back in its place by order of his queen. 

In the afternoon a thanksgiving service was held in 
the stone church. The king made a speech, urging the 
people to live better lives, and to try to be worthy of 
the country rrcifully restored to them. He ended 

his speech with the words, "Ua man ke ea o ka aina i ka 
pono" and these words were later adopted as the national 
motto and printed on all the coins. 

The rest of the day was spent in feasting and singing. 
A wonderful dinner, which Mrs. Judd helped prepare, was 
served to the English officers. Admiral Thomas stayed 
in Honolulu for some time, helping the king to restore 
order and break up the evil practices which prevailed. 

The 31st of July is called Restoration Day in the 
Islands, and was for many years celebrated like the 
Fourth of July with us. The plain where the flag was 
raised is now a beautiful garden set in palms and flower- 



i5i 

ing shrubs and plants. It is called Thomas Square, in 
honor of the English admiral. 

Alice often drove through it with her father and 
mother, and, as she did so, she tried to imagine how it 
had looked on the day when the Hawaiian flag was 
raised and the Islands were given back to the king. 



oXKo 



XXVI. MRS. JUDD 

ALICE thought the Hawaiian flag with its three 
crosses very much like the English flag. Some 
one told her that the Hawaiian flag had been patterned 
after the English flag, and that the first one had been 
made by Mrs. Judd. She was the wife of Dr. Judd, 
who was such a good friend to the king when Lord Paulet 
came to Honolulu in the Carysfort. Dr. Judd was one 
of the medical missionaries. He did not come out to 
the Hawaiian Islands until some time after the other 
missionaries, when the schools and churches were al- 
ready opened. He and Mrs. Judd came from Boston 
in a sailing vessel, like that in which the first mis- 
sionaries had made the voyage. 

The ship was not comfortable, and the officers were 
not very obliging, and they endured many hardships. 
Mrs. Judd had to cook and mend and do much hard 
work. She related all this in an interesting book, from 
which Mrs. Earle often read to Alice. 

After Mrs. Judd and her husband had been at sea for 



152 



several months they anchored, one bright Sunday morn- 
ing, in the harbor of Honolulu. 

Mrs. Judd described the town as "a mass of brown 
huts, looking like so many haystacks in the country ; 
not one white cottage, no church spire, not a garden 
nor a tree to be seen, save the grove of cocoanuts." 

In the center of the village was one grass hut, much 
larger than the others. Toward this, great crowds of 

people were hurry- 
ing; there seemed 
to be thousands of 
them, dressed in 
their mantles of 
bright colors. 

When Dr. and 
Mrs. Judd went 
ashore they were 
welcomed by the 
missionaries who 
were already there. 
The queen also 
treated them kindly 
and gave them a 
grass house to live in. The other missionaries had 
been overworked and were glad of their help, which 
they greatly needed. 

Mrs. Judd gave a very amusing account of the queen 
regent, Kinau, as she first saw her. She was very large 
and fat. She wore a bright silk dress, and a bonnet 
with gay feathers in it. She rode in a blue cart, sit- 
ting with her feet swinging down at the back of the 




w 

Mrs. Judd 



153 

cart. She was very heavy, and the cart was drawn by 
twenty men. 

Kinau was very kind to the missionaries and their 
wives. At one time she sent one of the ladies a rich 
silk dress of brilliant colors. The missionary's wife 
did not want it and sent it back, but the queen regent 
sent another, still more showy. This also was refused, 
because it was " too fine for the wife of a missionary." 
Then Kinau sent still another, of rich black silk, which 
the lady could not refuse. 

The foreigners were supposed to obey the queen 
regent, the king, and the chiefs, who were sometimes 
very exacting. At times the missionaries and their 
wives found it impossible to do just w T hat the rulers 
wished ; but the Americans were so much respected 
that even the king did not often try to force them to 
obedience. 

The wives of the missionaries aided them in the 
schools, and they also had to take into their homes 
and teach the young children of the king and the chiefs. 

While the Hawaiians were very friendly and generous 
with each other, — almost like one great family, — 
they were not much attached to their children. The 
mothers were fond of visiting and dancing and bathing, 
and they did not like the care of young children. So 
they often gave them away, or, what was worse, put them 
to death. They had never been taught that this was 
a great crime. One woman, after she had become a 
Christian, told Mrs. Judd that she had put to death eight 
of her little children as soon as they were born. She 
had buried them under the floor of her hut. She had 



154 

just learned what a cruel and wicked thing this was, 
and she shed tears as she made her confession. 

As you might imagine, Mrs. Judd had very little time 
to rest. The queen regent, especially, visited her a 
great deal, and sent for her often to come to her house. 

At one time she was ordered to make the king a coat. 
She had never learned how to make coats, so she was 
a good deal puzzled. But she was a clever woman, and 
knew how necessary it was not to offend the king, for 
fear that he might close the schools and forbid the 
missionaries to teach. Yet she had not even a pattern. 
After thinking about it a great deal, she took an old 
coat of her husband's to pieces, and from this she cut 
out one for the king. The king himself had bought from 
a trader some fine cloth which he sent her to make up. 
As the king was not of the same size or figure as 
Dr. Judd, the coat did not fit ; it was too tight in some 
places and too loose in others. But, as it was the first 
coat he had ever had, the king did not notice this, and 
he was very proud of it. 

When Dr. Judd and his wife came to the Islands, the 
king was a little boy. When he grew up and governed 
the country, they were both very good to him. They 
lived for the rest of their lives in Honolulu. 

Once measles broke out among the people. A great 
many died simply because they would not take the 
medicine the English and American physicians wished 
to give them. They called in their own doctors, who 
knew nothing about the disease, and, when they were 
burning with fever, they bathed in the cold surf. Dr. 
and Mrs. Judd visited the Hawaiians when they were 



155 

ill, and did whatever they could to help them. When 
later the smallpox broke out Dr. Judd had the greatest 
difficulty in persuading the people to be vaccinated, 
especially as many of those who were vaccinated never- 
theless caught the disease and died. 

The king told Dr. Judd to feel free to do whatever 
he thought best, and he had two other physicians to 
help him. 

Nearly three thousand people died, and many of the 
natives blamed Dr. Judd for the death of their friends, 
which their own doctors told them was the result of 
vaccination. It was a long time before Dr. Judd could 
regain their confidence. With the measles and small- 
pox, nearly eleven thousand people had died in five 
years. 

When Dr. Judd hid himself and King Kamehameha's 
papers in the royal tomb, Mrs. Judd showed her bravery 
and self-control. For when the British officers could 
not find Dr. Judd, or the important papers which they 
wanted, they came to her house and tried to force her 
to tell where her husband was ; but she steadfastly re- 
fused to reveal the secret. 

One of Mrs, Judd's hardest tasks was to arrange the 
dinner for Admiral Thomas. This gave the wives of 
the missionaries a great deal of anxiety. The king was 
very intemperate, and they had seen what great evils 
drinking had caused among the Hawaiians. Neither 
the missionaries nor their families used wine, because 
they did not wish to set a bad example to the king and 
the people. 

The English officers were used to drinking wine. 



156 

They always expected to have it offered them at dinner ; 
especially at such a dinner as this was to be. Mrs. Judd 
knew that the officers would be very much disappointed, 
but she and the wives of the other missionaries decided 
that, on account of the king, there should be no wine. 
It was a wonderful dinner, with beef and ham, fish and 
poultry, and all manner of cakes, puddings, and fruit. 
They had tea and coffee, and delicious cocoanut milk 
— but no wine. 

Mrs. Judd saw that even Admiral Thomas thought 
this a little inhospitable. They tried not to notice the 
disappointment of their guests, and, being w T ell-bred 
women, they did not venture to offer any apologies. 
Afterwards, Admiral Thomas told Mrs. Judd that they 
had done right ; and he praised them for their wisdom 
and courage. 



o**o 



XXVII. MOLOKAI AND THE LEPERS 

ALICE did not visit Molokai, the island set apart for 
the poor lepers — people afflicted with a terrible 
incurable disease. 

A little steamer makes regular trips between 
Honolulu and Molokai, carrying the mails and any 
visitors who have secured a permit from the govern- 
ment physicians. 

In the time of the first Kamehamehas there was no 



157 

leprosy in Hawaii. It was brought from abroad, but it 
spread so rapidly among the intemperate people that 
the king and his advisers — able American and Euro- 
pean physicians — began to consider how it could be 
checked. Thej r finally agreed upon a plan which, while 
it seemed very hard and cruel, was really, in the end, 
kind and humane. The Hawaiians themselves never 
shunned the lepers. They were not repelled by their 
drawn and misshapen features, but ate out of the same 




Group of Lepers 



calabash used by their friends whose hands were badly 
diseased. If their friends or relatives became lepers, 
they had no fear of living with them, and they mourned 
for them greatly when they died. 

It was thought that this was one reason why the 
disease could not be controlled ; so the Islands were 
divided into districts, and the police went up and down 
through each district, watching very carefully, to discover 
any lepers among the people. When any were found, 
they were taken away from their families and sent to a 
hospital in Honolulu. There they were kept until it 



158 

was certain that there could be no mistake about their 
disease. Then they were put on board the steamer and 
taken over to Molokai, and were forbidden ever again 
to return to their homes. 

It was in 1865 that it was decided that lepers should 
be sent to Molokai, and land for a settlement was 
bought on the north side of the island. This settlement 
is on a peninsula which contains about three thousand 
acres. The sea surrounds it on three sides, and it is 
joined to the mainland of Molokai on the south side by 
a precipice three thousand feet high. All around the 
isthmus, which juts into the sea, the deep, rough surf is 
never still, and through this surf even the Hawaiian 
swimmer could hardly make his way. Sometimes the 
surf is so rough that the boats cannot land. The 
precipice on the south is so high and steep that the 
lepers cannot escape in this direction from their prison. 

Aside from being captives, the lepers have now 
nothing to complain of in their treatment. Their home 
is in the lovely valley of Wai-ko'lu, across which cool 
sea breezes blow continually. They have excellent hos- 
pitals with able physicians and nurses. The govern- 
ment has built comfortable houses for them, and provides 
them with food and clothing. Thev have dogs and 
horses and many comforts. Flowers grow everywhere, 
and they make wreaths and garlands which they twine 
round their heads and necks, just as they did w T hen they 
were at home, among their friends and relatives. 

Fortunately, while they become more and more dis- 
figured by the disease, they do not suffer very much, 
for it is not very painful. 



iS9 

There are two villages in the settlement, Ka-la-wa'o 
on the east side, and Ka-lau-pa'pa on the west side of 
the peninsula, and the people living in the villages ride 
back and forth, visiting one another, just as people do 
in other places. 

When it was decided to send all the lepers to Molokai, 
the Hawaiians were very much opposed to it. They hid 
their sick in caves, or in the forests, so that they might 
not be discovered, and carried them food and cloth- 
ing. But the poor lepers were always found at last. 
They were missed from their homes, and their friends 
were watched coming and going from their hiding places. 
When discovered, they were arrested and taken to 
Honolulu, and from there sent to Molokai. Their 
friends and relatives came down to the ship to see them 
sail away, and their grief at parting was heart-breaking. 
It is indeed a sad thing to think of wives and husbands, 
parents and children, bidding each other good-by for- 
ever. Those who were left behind stood crying and 
calling after the ship, until it sank out of sight ; and 
the poor lepers looked back at the land to which they 
knew they could never return. 

The year after the settlement was established, one 
hundred and forty lepers were sent to Molokai, — men, 
women, and children. No difference was made between 
the high and the low, the rich and the poor. All were 
treated alike, — Hawaiian guides and fishermen, Chinese 
laborers from the plantations, and even the relatives of 
the queen. 

Among those who were rich and well-born was William 
Ragsdale, a cousin of the beautiful Queen Emma. He 



i6o 

was a well-educated lawyer, but being a leper, he, 
too, had to go to the settlement upon Molokai. He 
was a fine orator, and had much influence over the 
people. He took great interest in the lepers and gave 
them good advice. He had so much authority that he 
was called " Governor Ragsdale," although he was not 
really the governor of Molokai. He was assisted in his 
work among the lepers by twenty other men belonging 
to the settlement, all of whom w r ere lepers like himself. 
But everything was done that he suggested and as he 
advised. 

At first the houses in which the lepers lived were 
uncomfortable and poor ; the people did not try to keep 
them clean, and were, in every way, very miserable. 

After a time, King Kalakaua and Queen Kapiolani 
visited Molokai, to see for themselves the condition of 
the settlement. They were urged to do this by kind 
men who had charge of the lepers, and who knew that 
a great deal of money would be needed to build better 
houses and hospitals, and to provide many necessary 
comforts which were lacking. 

The king make a touching speech to the lepers, who 
had great respect for his rank and listened to him very 
attentively. He told them how much it grieved him to 
send them away from their homes and families, but said he 
hoped they realized that it was necessary. He praised 
them for their obedience to the law, and promised that 
he, on his part, would do all he could to make their lot 
as comfortable as possible. The poor lepers were much 
touched, and wept at the king's kind speech. He kept 
his word, and did much to improve the lepers' lot. 



i6i 

Among the lepers present at the time of the king's 
visit were two other cousins of Queen Emma. They, 
however, fared better than the others, for they could 
afford to have neat wooden houses built, comfortably 
furnished with everything that they desired. At that 
time all the other lepers lived in poor huts, where they 
had neither sunlight nor fresh air. 

For some time after the lepers were sent to Molokai, 
every passenger on the ships that came into the harbor 
at Honolulu was required to pay one dollar. This 
money was saved and given to those who had charge 
of the settlement, and with it many improvements were 
made. The government of the Hawaiian Islands was 
then too poor to make the necessary improvements 
without this assistance. When, later, the great sugar 
plantations were opened up, the country became richer 
and the government was then able to take care of the 
lepers without taxing travelers. 

The government has also employed physicians to 
study and find out all that can be learned about leprosy. 
They travel all over the world where they may meet 
men who, like themselves, are studying and observing 
the disease in other lands. For there are thousands of 
lepers in China, India, Syria, and even in cold countries 
like Siberia, Norway, and Sweden. 

Of the two villages in the settlement on Molokai, 
the larger is Kalawao, and there are more lepers there 
than at Kalaupapa, which is on the other side of the 
peninsula. 

The hospital buildings, which are arranged around a 
grassy square shaded with algaroba trees, are in the 

K Ron's HAWAII II 



102 

village of Kalawao. Thev are whitewashed and kept 
very clean. The doctor who has charge of the hospital 
lives in a house near bv, with his assistants, and there 
is a dispensary where all who need medicine can get it. 
This, like their food and clothing and houses, is fur- 
nished free to the lepers by the government. 

Each leper is allowed every week twenty-one pounds 
of poi or other food, if he prefers it, and from five to 
six pounds of beef. Sometimes the steamers cannot 
deliver the provisions that have been sent to the lepers 
because the surf is so rough that the boats cannot 
land. When this happens, they are given rice and 
salmon and other food instead. 

There are two Catholic and three Protestant chapels 
in the settlement, several schoolhouses, and one large 
general store. 

After twenty-five years of careful study, not much 
more is known of leprosy than when it first appeared 
in the Islands. It does not seem to be contagious, like 
smallpox or scarlet fever, and children whose parents 
are lepers are often quite healthy. If they are born in 
Molokai, they are kept there until they are fourteen or 
fifteen years old. Then it is thought that they are safe, 
and they are allowed to go away and live wherever they 
please. No cure for the disease has ever been found, 
although many things have been tried. No one who 
has once had leprosy has ever been known to get well. 

For all this, the lepers are not sad. They sing and 
laugh and enjoy themselves, much as other people do. 
They like to go to church, to ride, bathe, make wreaths, 
and listen to the band which has been taught bv one 



163 

of the teachers in the school to play upon many kinds 
of instruments. The band plays in the open air, 
several evenings in the week. There is none like 
it in the world, for every one of the musicians is a 
leper. 



XXVIII. FATHER DAMIEN 

MRS. EARLE carefully explained all this to Alice, 
and it made her very sad. She could never look 
in the direction of Molokai without thinking of the 
island lying out of sight, below the rim of the horizon, 
and of the poor people who were sent there for life. 
She did not, of course, see any lepers while she was in 
Honolulu, for they were all kept in the receiving hospi- 
tal until they were sent to Molokai. 

At her home in Chicago there was a picture hanging 
above Mrs. Earle's desk which Alice had always loved 
dearly. It was the picture of Father Damien, a priest 
who went out to Molokai, and lived among the lepers 
until he died. His face was sweet and gentle, with 
large dark eyes, a straight, beautiful nose, and a mouth 
that looked as if it might smile with great tenderness 
and compassion. 

While they were sitting in their room one afternoon, 
Alice asked her mother to tell her again the story of 
Father Damien. Mis. Earle was busy with some sew- 
ing which she did not lay aside, and Alice drew up a 
little stool and sat at her feet, listening to the story of 
this noble life. 



1 64 

Father Damien was born in Louvain, a city in 
Belgium, on January 3, 1840. His mother and father 
were pious people, and they brought up their children 
very carefully. Their son Joseph was a gentle lad, full 




Father Damien 



of fun, but thoughtful of many things which do not usu- 
ally interest boys. He wanted, above all, to do good in 
the world ; to help others who had not so comfortable 
a home, nor such kind parents as his own. 

Alice wanted to know how Father Damien came to 
decide to spend his life in Molokai, and Mrs, Earle took 



i6 5 

from her shelf a book by Mr. Edward Clifford, and 
read the following account : 

" On his nineteenth birthday his father took him to 
see his brother, who was then preparing for the priest- 
hood, and he left him there to dine, while he himself 
went on to a neighboring town. 

"Young Joseph decided that here was the oppor- 
tunity for taking the step which he had long been 
desiring to take, and when his father came back he told 
him that he wished to return home no more, and that it 
would be better thus to miss the pain of farewells. 
His father consented unwillingly, but, as he was obliged 
to hurry to the conveyance which was to take him 
home, there was no time for demur, and they parted at 
the station. Afterwards, when all was settled, Joseph 
revisited his home, and received his mother's approval 
and blessing. 

" His brother was bent on going to the South Seas 
for mission work, and all was arranged accordingly ; 
but at the last he was laid low with fever, and, to his 
bitter disappointment, forbidden to go. The impetuous 
Joseph asked him if it would be a consolation to him to 
have his brother go instead, and, receiving an affirma- 
tive answer, he wrote secretly, offering himself, and 
begging that he might be sent, though his education 
was not yet finished. The students were not allowed 
to send out letters till they had been submitted to the 
Superior, but Joseph ventured to disobey. 

"One day, as he sat at his studies, the Superior came 
in, and said, with a tender reproach, ' Oh, you impa- 
tient boy ! you have written this letter, and you are to go ' 



1 66 

"Joseph jumped up, and ran out, and leaped about 
like a young colt. 

" He worked for some years on other islands in the 
Pacific, but it happened that he was one day, in 1873, 
present at the dedication of a chapel in the island of 
Maui, when the bishop was lamenting that it was not 
possible for him to find a missionary to send to the 
lepers at Molokai. He had only been able to send 
them occasional and temporary help. 

"Some young priests had just arrived in Hawaii for 
mission work, and Father Damien instantly spoke. 
'Here are your new missionaries,' said he; 'one of 
them could take my district, and if you will be kind 
enough to allow it, I will go to Molokai and labor for 
the poor lepers whose wretched state of bodily and 
spiritual misfortune has often made my heart bleed 
within me.' 

" His offer was accepted, and that very day, without 
any farewells, he embarked on a boat that was taking 
some cattle to the leper settlement. 

" When he first put his foot on the island he said to 
himself, * Now, Joseph, my boy, this is your life work.' ' 

He built himself a hut under a palm tree and lived 
there for many years, until he had time to erect a 
house ; for he w T as busy every moment, night and day, 
among those who had need of his help. He scarcely 
took time to eat or sleep. 

There are few things useful to a life among the 
lepers that he could not do. He built a church very 
near the palm tree under which he had lived when he 
came to the settlement. He used with skill the plane 



1 67 

and the saw and the hammer. He taught the children 
in the schools ; he preached and worked in his garden ; 
he nursed the sick, and even dug graves for the dead. 
All this time he went about as if his were the happiest 
life in the world. 

When there was danger that Father Damien might 
become a leper, because he was so constantly with the 
sick and the dying, his friends begged him to leave the 
island, but he said, " I could never choose to be well at 
the price of giving up my life work." For twelve years 
he escaped ; then he, too, fell a victim to the dread 
disease. 

He was very brave and uncomplaining, and never 
regretted, for an instant, that he had come to Molokai. 
Even when he was told that he must die, he still 
worked on bravely. He knew that lepers often outlive 
those who are apparently strong and healthy, and he 
thought only of what he could accomplish before the 
time should come when he could work no longer. 

"You can understand/' said Mrs. Earle, "how much 
such an example did for the people, for, when we see 
others bearing trials patiently, it helps us to bear our 
ovvn. And this was what Father Damien did for the 
lepers." 

OO^CK- — 

XXIX. A VISIT TO FATHER DAMIEN 

WHEN Father Damien had been at Molokai many 
years people throughout the world began to hear 
of his good deeds. Everybody was interested in him 






and wanted to help him. particularly when it became 
known that he himself had fallen a victim to the terrible 
disease. 

In England, especially, contributions were raised, and 
in 1888 a traveler. Mr. Edward Clifford, offered to de- 
liver the gifts, and cheering letters which accompanied 
them, to Father Damien. 










School in Molokai 



As his vessel neared the coast of Molokai. Mr. Clif- 
ford saw the island covered with grass and trees ; 
the white cottages and the slender church spires ; and the 
surf tossing its white spray high into the air along the 
rocky coast. The steep, black, almost pathless cliffs 
reached to the clouds. The sea was so rough that the 
vessel could not land, so the party put off in a boat 
for a rocky point a few miles from the town, where they 
decided to leap ashore. 



i6g 

As the boat approached, Mr. Clifford saw Father 
Damien at a distance, a dark figure, coarsely dressed, 
coming slowly down to the water's edge, where he ex- 
changed signals with the men in the boat. 

In spite of the roughness of the sea and the difficulty 
of landing even the men, Mr. Clifford was unwilling to 
leave behind him the gifts for Father Damien ; so he 
opened the large box in the boat, and the parcels were 
handed out, one by one, across the waves. 

At the time of this visit Father Damien was nearly 
forty-nine years old — a strongly built man with black 
curly hair, and a short beard turning gray. He had 
been in the island for sixteen years, and for the last 
four years had been a leper. The disease had left its 
marks upon him, and yet it was pleasant to look at his 
noble, cheerful face. 

Since he had come to Molokai he had been joined by 
another priest, Father Conradi, and by four sisters who 
spent their time taking care of the little girls and teach- 
ing them to read and sew. A home for girls had been 
founded, called Kapiolani Home, in honor of the wife 
of Kalakaua who was king when it was built. 

There were, in addition, several Protestant churches, 
and their pastors also worked faithfully and patiently 
among the lepers. 

Father Damien was very much pleased with the pres- 
ents that had been sent from London, and he was much 
interested in untying all the parcels and wondered what 
they contained. There were, among many other things, 
beautiful pictures, a magic lantern, a musical instrument 
that played forty different tunes, with gifts of money 



I JO 

out of' which Father Damien could buy for the lepers 
whatever he thought they most needed. 

A great English painter, Sir Edward Burne-Jones, in 
admiration of Father Damien's work, painted for him a 
beautiful picture — " The Vision of St. Francis." Father 
Damien hung this picture in his own room, where he 
could always see it. 

He lived on the upper floor of a house which he had 
built quite near the new Catholic church, and the lower 
floor he gave up to his friend, Father Conradi. 

Mr. Clifford found everything much improved in both 
the villages. New houses, light and airy, had been built 
for the people, on trestles, high above the ground. A 
good supply of clear, cold water was brought down in 
pipes from the mountains ; the hospitals were clean and 
comfortable ; and the number of churches had increased 
to five. 

Mr. Clifford reached Molokai about Christmas time, 
so that the box he brought was really a beautiful Christ- 
mas present. He heard Father Damien preach a good, 
sensible sermon that all could understand, simply urging 
the people to do right and be good. There was very 
sweet singing by the choir which he had trained. One 

of the hymns 

k * Come hither, ve faithful, 
Triumphantly sing " 

Mr. Clifford had heard sung very often in his little vil- 
lage church in England on Christmas mornings, when 
the ground was white with snow, and the walls were 
covered with spicy cedar, and the glossy, prickly holly 
with its scarlet berries. There, everybody was joyous 



171 

and happy, and the children had all come home to 
spend the happy Christmastide together. 

What a contrast to the scene on Molokai ! There was 
no home-coming, ever again, for the lepers. Instead of 
snow, there were bright flowers everywhere. Through 
the open doors and windows could be seen palms and 
mangoes waving in the soft wind, and the mynahs could 
be heard chattering in the algaroba trees. 

In the afternoon Father Damien talked in the Hawai- 
ian language to the boys, very much as he had preached 
to the older people in the morning. 

He was a very humble man, both in his acts and his 
speech. When he visited Mr. Clifford, he would not 
come into the guest house, but sat outside, upon the 
doorstep, for fear the sight of his face and hands might 
offend his English friend. 

Mr. Clifford showed him how to use the magic lantern, 
which pleased them all very much, and Father Damien 
explained, in Hawaiian, the pictures, which represented 
scenes in the life of Christ. 

Finally, the time came for Mr. Clifford to leave. 
This is his own description of his last view of the island. 

"As our ship weighed anchor the somber purple cliffs 
were crowned with white clouds. Down their sides 
leaped the cataracts. The little village, with its three 
churches and its white cottages, lay at their bases. 
Father Damien stood with his people on the rocks till 
we slowly passed from their sight. The sun was getting 
low in the heavens, the beams of light were slanting 
down the mountain sides, and then I saw the last of 
Molokai in a golden veil of mist." 



\;2 

Father Damien died a few months after this, and is 
buried in the settlement where he worked so faith- 
fully. He had lived long enough to bring about great 




- La ngi 1. 1 



View of Molokai 

changes for the better, and he will always be remem- 
bered as one of those heroes who have willingly lived 
and died for the good of others. 



O^C-o 



XXX. IOLAXI PALACE 

IN one of her walks about Honolulu Alice saw a large 
showy building, standing on a lawn set with gay 
flower-beds. A high wall was built around the grounds, 
and there was a soldier standing at the gate, with his 
musket in his hand. Mr. Earle said that this building 
was I-o-la'ni Palace, built by King Kalakaua in 1880. 



173 

His sister, Li-li'u-o-ka-la'ni, had also lived there as 
queen. Kalakaua was a kind man, but not a very good 
king. He was fond of pleasure, and glad to avoid 
trouble ; and being advised by wicked men he did many 
things that were not right. 

After he had been king for seven years he started on 




Iolani Palace 



a long journey around the world, and came home dis- 
satisfied with his own kingdom, which he wished to 
make like the great countries he had seen across the 
water. He wanted soldiers and ships, though he did 
not need them, and was quite discontented because 
there was no money to pay for all the things he longed 
to possess. 



174 



It was not the custom in Hawaii for the king to 
wear a crown, but Kalakaua now sent to England for 
crowns for himself and the queen, and when they 
arrived in Honolulu, Kalakaua and Kapiolani were 
crowned in a little pavilion in the palace grounds. 

Some time after this the king decided to visit Cali- 
fornia for his health. He was treated everywhere with 

the greatest kindness, 
but his health contin- 
ued to fail, and in spite 
of the efforts of the 
best doctors to save 
him he died in San 
Francisco in January, 
1 89 1, two months after 
his departure from 
home. His body was 
sent back to his own 
country in the Charles- 
ton, an American war 
ship. Just about this 
time the king was ex- 
pected home, and the people in Honolulu had prepared 
to give him a royal welcome. Arches covered with 
vines and flowers had been erected, and the public 
buildings were bright with flags and garlands. As the 
ship hove in sight the people saw the flag flying at half- 
mast, and soon they all knew that their king was dead. 
The decorations were quickly exchanged for mourning, 
and the king's body was carried to the palace, and 
buried in the royal tomb. 




Kalakaua 



175 

As the king had no children, his sister, Liliuokalani, 
became queen. She promised to obey and enforce the 
laws, and it was hoped that she would make a good 
queen. But these laws, made by the advice of 
foreigners, took away much of the royal power. They 




were for the good of the country, but Queen Liliuoka- 
lani did not care for that. She was jealous of the 
power of the white men, and thought if she could but 
get rid of them she could make new laws to suit herself. 
Some of the queen's friends, who knew what was 
best for her, tried to persuade her to be advised by wise 
men who understood better than she how to govern, but 



I 76 

she -rubborn and insisted on having her own 

way. At last the people's patien; gave out. A num- 
ber of men called the " Committee of Safety," banded 
together to save the country from the queen's bad 
influence, and since she showed herself unfit to govern, 
told her she could no longer be queen. 

As might have :::: e :::e::ed, Liliuokalani was very 
angry, and prepared to resist with might and main. 
This happened in the year 1893. It was a trying time, 
and no one could tell how it would end. The people in 
Honolulu were asked to stay quietly at home and help 
in even" way they could to preserve order. The 
marines came ashore from the American ship, the 
Boston, to protect the lives and property of the Amer- 
icans living in Honolulu. 

Fortunately there was no fighting, and the queen and 
her friends were not harmed in anv way; but Liliuoka- 
lani was forced to leave the palace and went to Wash- 
ington Villa, the house where she had lived before she 

- made queen. Washington Villa was not far from 

the palace, and was a large two-story house with veran- 

das above and below. Here Liliuokalani lived with her 

[sited by her friends, and driving out in her 

carriage whenever she pleased. 

At this time many people thought it would be a good 
plan to ask the United States to govern the Islands; 
but it took time to consider whether this would be a 
good thing for both countries, and it was not before the 
summer of 1898 that the Hawaiian Islands were annexed 
to the United States. In the meantime, the people in 
Hawaii established a republican form of government 



177 

and chose a president, Mr. Sanford B. Dole, who had 
all his life long been such a good man that both the 
white people and the Hawaiians knew that they could 
trust him with such responsible duties. 

Liliuokalani did not wish the Hawaiian Islands to be 
governed by the United States, and she by no means 




Washington Villa 



gave up the idea of again becoming queen. While she 
lived at Washington Villa, she held secret meetings in 
her house, and bought guns and swords, powder and 
shot, which were buried in pits upon her lawn. She 
had planned to arm Hawaiian soldiers and fight in the 
streets, until the people who had opposed her were con- 
quered or killed. 



Then she thought she could go back 



KROUT'S HAWAII — 12 



- 

to the palace, and the white men and their families 

uld be driven from the Islands and never permitted 
to return. She forgot that many of them had been 
born there and had lived there all their lives, and that it 

s their countrv just as much as her own. 

Her plans failed, and the Hawaiians who tried to 
tight were driven into the mountains, and at last forced 
to surrender. Liliuokalani was taken back to the 
palace, not, however, as queen, but as a prisoner. She 
— treated with more kindness than she seemed to 
r for the rooms that she had before occupied 
e set apart for her use, and her servants were allowed 
to wait upon her, and she could walk and sit in the 
garden as :::ea as she pleased. It as such a beauti- 
ful garden, with the mountains and the sea nea: 
hand, that such a prison could not have been v 
dismal. 

After listening with much interest tc this story, Alice 
ascended a flight of broad stone steps leading to the 
entrance, which opened into a broad hall. Nothing 
had been changed. The large rooms ere very plainly 
furnished, Alice thought, for a palace. The flowered 
Brussels carper the furniture covered with chintz, and 
the chintz curtains, were not of the kind she thought a 
queen would have chosen. In one broad, long apart- 
ment, two large chairs, with gilded arms and ba: 
stood upon a low dais or platform, in front of which 
curtains of crimson velvet hung from the ceiling. This 

- the throne where the king and queen had sat on 
sions, splendidly dressed in silk and velvet 
and costly jewels. 



179 

Upon the walls, framed like pictures, were medals 
and ribbons. These were the " orders" (badges worn 
by people of high rank) which had been given King 
Kalakaua by other kings and queens throughout the 
world. 

There were also portraits of the old Hawaiian rulers, 
which had been painted by artists who visited Hawaii, 
or by great painters in England. 

Alice thought Kamehameha the Great the most inter- 
esting of the kings, and Queen Emma the most beauti- 
ful of the queens. The great king's portrait was that 
of a dark-skinned old man, with short, snow-white hair 
and dark, piercing eyes. Over his shoulders he wore a 
yellow feather mantle. Queen Emma had a very sweet 
and amiable expression. She was the wife of Kame- 
hameha IV. She never reigned herself, although the 
Hawaiians wanted her for their ruler at the time when 
Kalakaua was chosen king. 

In a little cabinet in one of the rooms were collected 
a great many curious toys and tools. These were made 
of wood, or bone, or stone, by the early Hawaiians, and 
are now no longer used. There were calabashes, deep, 
polished bowls for holding food and water. And there 
were the large wooden platters used to serve roast dog, 
— a dish which the Hawaiians considered a great deli- 
cacy. The dogs thus served were small, and had been 
fed on clean, wholesome food like taro and sweet 
potato. 

Among the most curious things to be seen in the 
palace were the beautiful feather mantles. These were 
carefully locked away in chests. Each mantle was 



i So 

smoothly rolled around a long, wooden staff. When 
t shaken out it looked almost like the plumage of some 
large bird. With the mantles they saw a number 
of staffs that looked like great feather dust brushes. 
They were made of many kinds of feathers, — yel- 
low, black, white, and red, — and their handles, which 
were six or eight feet long, were of polished wood with 
bands of tortoise shell or bone. They were always 
carried in the procession, when the king and queen 
passed through the streets of Honolulu in state, or 
were placed about their thrones, and about their 
coffins when they died. 



o;*ko 



XXXI. KAPIOLANI 

AS they drove back and forth to Waikiki, Alice had 
noticed a pretty place, quite near the sea. Above 
the gate was a notice in Hawaiian letters, "Kapn!" 
This meant, "No Admittance." Alice would have liked 
very much to walk about the shady grounds, which, 
although they were not so neat and trim as other 
gardens she had seen, looked cool and pleasant. Man- 
goes and algarobas grew everywhere, and rows of tall, 
stately palms bordered the graveled drive. She never 
passed the gate without longing to go in, but the word 
of warning always stared her in the face. 

One day her mother told her that they had an invi- 
tation to call upon Kapiolani, who had been the wife 



i8i 



of King Kalakaua, and was called the queen dowager. 
Alice was delighted when she learned that Kapiolani 
lived in the pretty place that she longed to visit. 

They started at about four o'clock in the afternoon. 
A Hawaiian lady went with them to introduce them 
to Kapiolani, and to translate what Kapiolani said, for 
although she understood English she could not speak it. 




Home of Kapiolani 

Everybody liked Queen Kapiolani. She had al- 
ways been good and kind, especially to the sick and 
poor She was friendly to Americans, too, at a time 
when few of the Hawaiians were on good terms with 
them. 

Alice could hardly believe that her wish had come 
true, even as they drove through the gate, under the 
palm trees, up to the door. 

The house was not like any that she had ever seen 



182 

The front was covered with latticework, and two flights 
of steps, on opposite sides of a little open balcony, led 
to the front door. There was another door, beneath 
the balcony, which opened into rooms on the ground 
floor. Alice did not notice any windows in the front 
of the house. 

The door to the main entrance stood open, and 
they went up the steps into the drawing-room. There 
was no bell, and no one came to meet them, but 
the Hawaiian lady told them that this was not neces- 
sary. They sat down and waited for Kapiolani to 
appear. 

The drawing-room was large and airy, and curiously 
furnished. The carpet was of a bright color decorated 
with roses. The furniture was plain and old-fashioned. 
Vases filled with flowers stood about, not upon the tables 
and mantels, but upon the floor, in corners where they 
could not be upset. 

Upon a table in the center of the floor was a marble 
bust of King Kalakaua, and there were many pictures 
of him on the walls. Near the table was a tall staff 
made of colored feathers, with a long handle of wood, 
like those Alice had seen when she visited the palace. 
This was placed beside the bust, because Kalakaua had 
been king. 

At the doors were hangings of rich silk which, no 
doubt, the king had brought home from India, when 
he made his long journey around the world. There 
were other hangings, which, like the curtains, were of 
plain chintz. 

Alice had never seen a queen before, and she did 



183 



not know just how to act. She saw that her mother 
was not at all embarrassed, but was very calm and self- 
possessed ; just as she would have been in calling upon 
a friend in Chicago. So she thought that this must 
be proper, and she, also, sat very quiet and waited for 
Kapiolani to come. 

They could hear a great deal of talking and laughing 
somewhere about the house. Presently they looked up 
and saw a tall, dark 
woman standing in a 
doorway which led to 
an outer room. She 
paused a moment, as 
if somewhat shy. 
Then she smiled very 
pleasantly, and held 
out her hand, just as 
any other well-bred 
woman might have 
done. She told them, 
in Hawaiian, that she 
was very glad to see 
them. 




Kapiolani 



She did not look like a queen, according to Alice's 
idea. She was very tall indeed, and strong and power- 
ful, but not so stout as many Hawaiian women that 
Alice had met. Her skin and eyes were quite dark, 
but her teeth were white and even. Her hair was jet 
black and was worn in a large thick coil on the top of 
her head. She wore a holoku of stiff, black silk, and 
a brooch, set round with pearls, in which was a portrait 



1 84 

of her husband. After shaking hands with them all, 
she patted Alice gently on the cheek. Then several 
Hawaiian ladies who lived with Kapiolani came into the 
drawing-room. They, also, wore holokus, but theirs 
were of bright-colored silk. 

Alice noticed, too, that the queen wore a wreath of 
vellow feathers, which was like those she had seen at 
the palace. These are still worn by princesses and 
chiefs of high rank. None of the ladies wore the 
feather wreaths ; theirs were made of flowers, and they 
also wore flowers in their hair. 

It was quite warm, and Kapiolani asked one of 
the ladies to get a fan for Mrs. Earle and one for 
Alice, and she, too, sat fanning herself. The fans 
were of braided grass, like the mats that Alice had 
seen. 

Kapiolani was very good-natured. She asked Mrs. 
Earle a great many questions, which their Hawaiian 
friend translated into English. She had visited the 
United States and England once, and had been kindly 
received evervwhere. She liked America, she said, and 
hoped, some day, to visit it again. Mrs. Earle had told 
Alice about the visit to England, where Kapiolani was 
the guest of Queen Victoria, who gave her fine apart- 
ments to live in, with a sentinel in uniform to stand 
outside the door. The queen also put her own splendid 
carriages at the disposal of Kapiolani during her stay 
in London. 

When Mrs. Earle told Kapiolani how beautiful she 
thought the Hawaiian Islands were, and how much 
she had been charmed with the clean city, the gardens, 



i8 5 



and the excellent schools, Kapiolani smiled approvingly 
and seemed much pleased. 

A pretty picture of Princess Kaiulani hung upon the 
wall. It had always been expected that she would be 
the next queen of the Hawaiian Islands. She was at 
this time studying in England, and Kapiolani, who 
loved her very dearly, hoped that she would soon return ; 
for she thought she 
would be happier in her 
own sunny land. She 
did not foresee how 
short a time the princess 
was to spend in Hawaii, 
for Kaiulani died very 
soon after her return, in 
1899. 

When they rose to go, 
the queen also rose and 
shook hands with them, 
and said " Aloha ! " 

As they drove back to 
the city Mrs. Earle told 
Alice that, although Kalakaua had been an unpopular 
king, Kapiolani had always been much respected and 
beloved. She was dignified and polite, and all spoke 
well of her. She had never had any children, and 
this was why Liliuokalani, the king's sister, was made 
queen after Kalakaua died. 

Kapiolani was named after the chief who ate the ohelo 
berries, and went down into the crater of Kilauea to 
prove to the people that there was no such spirit as Pele, 




Kaiulani 



1 86 



XXXII. AN OSTRICH FARM 

ALICE had often seen ostriches, in parks and in 
zoological gardens, but she had never seen them 
walking about in the fields. 

She knew that they came from Africa, and that in 
the southern part of Africa they are now raised on 
farms, just as we raise horses and cattle in our country. 

They were trying to raise ostriches in the Hawaiian 
Islands, and there was a farm out in the country, not 
far from Diamond Head, which Alice visited. It 
takes a great deal of time and patience to raise young 
ostriches in foreign lands, although in their native 
countries the young birds are left very much to them- 
selves. 

The ostrich farmer lived in a neat white house, in 
a grove of algaroba trees, and he was quite willing to 
show the party about. 

The paddock in which the young ostriches were 
kept was green and grassy, and there was plenty of 
shade. Alice wondered why such a place as this had 
been chosen, for she knew that wild ostriches in Africa 
live on the desert, where there is no shade. Mr. 
Earle told her that almost all animals change their 
habits a little when they are taken from their native 
country. It is never possible to get quite the same kind 
of food for them that they have been accustomed to 
eat ; and they have to adapt themselves to a different 
climate. There are many animals that cannot live in 
any country but their own ; while others, like cats 



i8 7 

and dogs and fowls, can live in almost any part of 
the world. The ostrich usually thrives well wherever 
the climate is warm enough, and where there is not too 
much rain. 

The young birds stood under the trees near the fence, 
and Alice looked at them as closely as she dared. They 
did not seem very good-tempered, and she was afraid to 
go too close to them. The chicks were covered all over 




Young Ostriches 

by a light-colored, spiny down. When two months 
old the birds begin to resemble the mother bird. The 
body is covered with brownish-gray feathers, while the 
head, neck, and legs are almost naked. At three years 
of age they assume their full plumage. The male bird 
then has glossy black feathers on the body and long, 
white feathers on the tail and wing. These white 
feathers are of the greatest value. 

The long neck much resembles that of the camel in 



i88 

shape. The legs are long and there are two toes on 
each foot. The longer toe has a strong claw. The 
feet are padded beneath, so that the ostrich can travel 
quickly over the sand. The large eyes are a soft 
brown, like the eyes of a cow, and the head is 
flattened. 

The ostrich defends itself with its sharp claws, and an 
old bird can dangerously wound and even kill a man 
with one blow. The ostrich in the desert runs very 
swiftly, and a hunter on a fast horse can hardly over- 
take him. 

As Alice and her father stood looking at the ostriches, 
they stretched their necks over the fence, to get a better 
view of their visitors. They yawned often, as if they 
were sleepy. It was a very warm day, and the young 
ostriches tried to fan themselves with their little wings 
as they walked away. 

The farmer said that he fed them on cabbage, a little 
grain, and on alfalfa, which is a kind of grass that is 
good food for horses and cattle. 

The eggs were hatched in an incubator, though the 
mother bird sat on the nest until the eggs were taken from 
her. Whenever she left the nest the male bird came to 
sit on it and to guard it with jealous care. When they 
are not sitting on the nest, the old birds are suspicious 
and uneasy. They never leave the nest for very long. 

The ostrich lays about thirty eggs in one nest ; but 
the farmer said that, even with the greatest care, but 
few of these eggs are hatched. The feathers of the 
bird are not of much value until it is eighteen months 
old. Old ostriches are worth a great deal more than 



1 89 

ordinary horses. They cost from seven hundred to 
eight hundred dollars each. The young birds, when 
full-grown, are worth one hundred and fifty dollars 
apiece, if they are in good condition. 

The ostrich farmer told them that he had to be care- 
ful of the young birds, as they were very tender. They 
had to be kept dry and warm, and the least over- 
feeding would be apt to kill them. 

Alice told the ostrich farmer that she had read some- 
where that the ostrich could eat anything, — scraps 
of iron and bits of glass, which, it was stated, agreed 
with it. The man laughed, and said that this was not 
true. They do pick up small pieces of metal, now 
and then, and, like all birds, they require gravel to help 
them digest their food ; but they have to be fed very 
carefully. 

When the farmer goes out after dark to steal the 
eggs, he takes with him a short, forked stick. With 
this he keeps the old birds at a distance, for it makes 
them very angry to see their nests disturbed. He 
pushes one of the birds away by holding the neck in 
the fork of the stick. This frightens both the ostrich 
that is caught in the fork of the stick and its mate, so 
that they run away as fast as they can. 

The incubator, in which the eggs are hatched, looks 
very much like a kerosene stove, and it is heated with 
kerosene lamps. The eggs must be kept very warm, 
and they must be turned four times a day, and four 
times during the night. They do not hatch for six 
weeks, and the ostrich farmer, who must get up four 
times during the night, unless he has some one to help 



100 

him, is very glad when the young birds come out of the 
shell. When the old bird hears the chirp of the young 
ostrich, she knows that it is time for it to hatch, and 
she helps it break the thick shell by striking it with her 
breastbone. When the eggs are hatched in an incuba- 
tor, at the end of the six weeks the ostrich farmer 
listens very carefully, every day, and when he hears the 




Old Ostriches 



young birds, he breaks the shell with a small, sharp 
instrument. 

When the birds are hatched they are placed in a box 
which is kept warm, and always at the same tempera- 
ture. Long, soft, woolen strings are hung from the 
roof of the box, to serve instead of the old bird's plu- 
mage, which protects her young when she gathers them 
under her wings. 

The old birds were in paddocks by themselves. 
When Mr. Earle asked to see them, the ostrich farmer 
whistled, and they came trotting to him, no doubt expect- 



191 

ing to be fed. Some of them were seven feet tall. A 
lane, not more than two yards wide, leading from the 
paddocks, had been inclosed by a high fence ; and in 
this lane the old birds walked up and down. 

One of the old ostriches, named " Jumbo," was strong 
and fierce and was kept by himself; but he did not 
seem to object to this. He was probably very proud 
that the other birds were so much afraid of him. Alice 
had read somewhere that the ostrich was a timid, gentle 
bird. The farmer said that this might be true of some 
ostriches, but that old birds, like Jumbo, were very 
savage ; they could never be tamed, and it was not safe 
for strangers to go near them. 

As he said this, Jumbo came slowly up to the fence 
in the little lane, and stretching his long furry neck 
over the palings, eyed Alice very savagely indeed. He 
seemed to be saying, " If I could only get a chance at 
that hat of yours, there would not be much of it left." 
Alice was glad that the fence was strong and high. 



o^o 



XXXIII. HAWAIIAN SCHOOLS 

A FEW days before they were to sail for San Fran- 
cisco, Alice went with her mother and father to 
visit the schools in Honolulu. Before she came to the 
Hawaiian Islands Alice had an idea that only the white 
people living there could read and write. She was 
much surprised, therefore, to learn that, in proportion to 



192 

the number of people, there were more who could read 
in Hawaii than in Illinois. 

The missionaries from New England, on their very first 
visit to the Hawaiian Islands, had started schools and 
begun at once to teach the people to read. Alice knew 
how anxious the Hawaiians were to learn. Young and 
old alike had been eager to attend the mission schools. 
There are now in the Islands many public schools like 
our own ; with the same sort of books, desks, and 
blackboards, and with good teachers, many of whom 
have been taught in the United States. These schools, 
very different from those first held in grass huts, are 
now found not only in Honolulu and in the villages 
throughout the Islands, but also in the country near the 
plantations. 

By the time the missionaries had been in Honolulu 
twelve years, a good many other American and English 
people had settled in Hawaii. 

In 1832 a subscription was taken for the erection of 
a schoolhouse for the English-speaking children living 
in the Islands. The captains of the ships in the harbor 
contributed liberally, and in 1833 a neat brick building 
was erected, and the school was opened under the name 
of the " Oahu Charity School." 

A few years later a boarding school for girls was 
established in Wailuku, and a manual training school 
for Hawaiian boys in Hilo. In addition to the common 
studies the boys of this school were taught to work in 
the garden, and to use tools. 

Some years after this, another school was founded, 
which at first was attended only by the children of the 



193 

missionaries, but later by Hawaiian children as well. 
This school is now Oahu College. 

There were good schools in Honolulu long before 
there were any in California, and when California began 
to be settled by Americans, the people who could afford 





Hedge of Night-blooming Cereus 



to do so sent their children down to Honolulu, to attend 
the missionary schools. 

Alice visited the college first. The large buildings 
stand in beautiful grounds shaded with mango and 
algaroba trees, and the lawns are very green and closely 
clipped. Near the road is a long hedge of a kind of 
cactus, a prickly plant that grows in hot countries in 
dry, sandy soil. It is called the night-blooming cereus. 

KROI I's HAWAII — I ? 



194 



It opens very slowly in the night and is pure white, and 
very fragrant. When the hedge along the college lawn 
was in bloom it was covered with the large white flowers, 
thousands blooming at once. 

Women were admitted to the Oahu College from the 
very start, for the missionaries believed in giving men 
and women the same advantages of education. 

One of the founders 
of the college was the 
Rev. Daniel Dole, father 
of Sanford B. Dole, the 
president of the Republic 
of Hawaii. This school 
was at first called " Pu-na- 
ho'u" or "new spring," 
from a fine large spring- 
near by. There was a su- 
perstition connected with 
this spring that if any one 
about to leave Hawaii 
should drink from it, he 
would be sure to return 
some day. 
When the school was opened, the pupils paid but fifty 
cents a week for food, lodging, and instruction. 

The first building was of adobe or sun-dried bricks, 
one story high, with a thatched roof. Now, there are 
several buildings of brick and stone, a library and recita- 
tion rooms, and near the college there are pretty houses 
for the president and the teachers. The teachers and 
pupils all eat together in the same dining hall, boys and 




President Dole 



195 

girls, Hawaiians and Americans, and they are very 
industrious and happy. 

Besides the government schools, or public schools, a 
seminary was opened in Honolulu for Hawaiian girls. 
This, too, was a pretty place, and the girls were very 
happy and contented. They came into the chapel with 
wreaths around their necks and flowers in their hair. 





Schoolboy 



Schoolgirl 



They were neatly dressed, and they sang, in their own 
language, a very sweet but mournful song. Alice never 
heard a Hawaiian song that did not sound sad. She 
could not understand this, for the Hawaiians are always 
smiling, and nothing seems to trouble them. 

Several miles out of the city there is a school for 
boys, called the Kamehameha School. Besides recita- 
tion rooms and laboratories in the large building, there 
are machine shops with forges and lathes, a printing 



196 

office, and a farm where the pupils are taught to work 
when they are not studying or reciting their lessons. 
The boys also have a military company and are drilled 
like soldiers. They look very handsome in their neat 
uniforms. The money to buy the land, to put up the 
buildings, and to pay the teachers was given by a 




Kamehameha School 

Hawaiian princess, Bernice Pau-a'hi, who married an 
American banker. She might have been queen, but 
she preferred to live quietly in her own home. Prin- 
cess Pauahi had no children, and she left almost 
all her large fortune for the education of Hawaiian 
children. 

Near the college is a museum, also her gift. It is 
well arranged, and here are kept tools, utensils, 



197 

weapons, mats, fans, and tapa — the things the 
Hawaiians used to make. As they do very little of 
this work now, these articles are carefully preserved 
that people may know what they were like. There 
are also stuffed birds and fishes. Alice saw, among 
other things, the bird from whose plumage the feather 
mantles were made. 

The Hawaiian children are very good in school. 
They are gentle, obedient, and respectful to their 
teachers. They read and spell well, and they write 
beautifully ; but most of them find difficulty with 
arithmetic. 



XXXIV. THE CHINESE AND THEIR 
SCHOOLS 

IX Honolulu there are a great many Chinese. They 
not only work on the plantations and in their gar- 
dens, raising fruits and vegetables, but they keep shops. 
Some of these shops are small, and nothing is sold 
there but cheap clothing and all the queer kinds of 
food that the Chinese like. Others are large and filled 
with beautiful things that have been brought from 
China, — silks and crepes; carved boxes of ivory and 
sandalwood ; and fans of embroidered silk or beautiful 
feathers. 

The families of the rich merchants live in rooms over 
the shops. Their wives wear rich silk clothing. Their 
feet, upon which they wear tiny shoes embroidered in 



1 98 

silk and gold thread, are only a few inches in length. 
They do not walk well, but totter as it about to fall. 
When they were very small their feet were wound in 
tight bandages so that they could not grow. It is an 
extremely painful process, but among the rich and edu- 




Chinese Woman with Small Feet 



cated people in China a woman with large feet is not 
respected. 

Alice did not see in Honolulu any little Chinese girls 
whose feet had been bandaged. She thought that the 
American teachers must have persuaded their parents 
to let their feet grow, so that they might walk about, 
and run and play like other children. 



199 

One day Alice went to visit a large boarding school 
for Chinese boys kept by a missionary. The mission- 
ary's wife was a beautiful woman, born in Canton, of 
American parents. She spoke Chinese as well as 
English, although Chinese is a very hard language to 




Chinese Boarding School 



learn. There are many thousands of words that must 
be committed to memory, because there is a separate 
character in Chinese for every word. 

When Alice and her mother went into the room 
where forty or fifty boys were studying under a Chinese 
teacher, the pupils rose and bade them good morning 
in chorus. They did the same when the visitors left. 



200 

The teacher was an odd-looking old Chinaman, dressed 
in Chinese clothes, with a black cap on his head. He 
wore large spectacles of a kind that Alice had never 
seen before. He was very grave and polite. He spoke 
English, and told them that some of his pupils had come 
from China only a few months before. 

The children's books were printed in Chinese, and 
what seemed to Alice like a crooked, dotted letter, was 
really several words. One boy, about twelve years old, 
showed Mrs. Earle his book, and told her that he was 
studying about animals. 

It was very noisy in the school. The pupils all studied 
aloud, with voices pitched in many keys, and it sounded 
like a strange kind of singing. The children must be 
very careful how they pitch their voices, for a word in 
one key means one thing, and the same word in a 
different key means something else. The teacher 

n 

listened closely all the time, and whenever he heard a 
wrong tone he corrected the pupils. 

Boys in China are taught to pay the highest respect 
to their parents and teachers. 

While the boys at their desks were chanting their 
lessons, one at a time was called up to recite. Each 
boy came to the teacher's desk, and stood with his back 
to the teacher. The teacher did not ask any questions, 
but the pupil recited what he had learned by heart. 
Chinese pupils spend a great deal of time learning 
words of which they do not know the meaning. They 
are taught the meaning later. 

Alice also visited the Chinese kindergarten, where she 
thought the little boys and girls very pretty. The 



?OI 






schoolroom was pleasant and sunny and Alice did not 
wonder that the children like to go to school. Through 
the open doors and windows she could hear the breeze 
stirring in the palm trees. The walls were covered 
with pretty pictures, and there were little tables at 
which the children sat, cut- 
ting paper for baskets, and 
molding figures in clay. 
They showed by their 
happy faces how much 
they enjoyed this work. 

The children wore little 
trousers and jackets of 
green, pink, blue, or brown 
dotted with large yellow 
dots. Their queues were 
lengthened with pink cord 
which was braided in with 
the hair. Several wore 
anklets and bracelets of 
metal. 

When Alice entered, 
they were playing a game 
with a ball. One child 
stood in the center with a ball in her hand, while the 
other children moved round her in a circle, singing. 
Presently she chose a boy to whom she gave the ball, 
and he took her place in the circle, and gave the ball 
to another child. He bowed and shook hands with 
the child to whom he gave the ball. They sang very 
sweetly, because they had been taught when they were 




Chinese Girl 



202 

young, and before their v: re spoiled. The Chi- 

nese have naturally thin, high voices, and their music is 
harsh. 

On their way home they passed a Chinese temple 
and saw the people bowing before the figures of their 
gods, which were very hideous. Children played upon 
the steps, and ran in and out, but they did not disturb 
the priests, and nobody chased them away. A little 
girl went into the temple carrying a baby on her back. 
It was ing with all its might, but no one paid any 
attention to it Alice wanted to loosen the tight scarf 
by which the baby was carried, which she thought must 
hurt it verv much. But she did not dare to ask the 
little girl if she might. 

When Alice reached home she said that she had 
learned from this interesting visit many things about 
the Chinese that she was glad to kn«: 



■-,^.-— 



XXXV. GOOD-BY 

AFTER she had spent three delightful months in 
Hawaii, the time came for Alice to say "good-by." 
She felt very sad at the thought of leaving, and al- 
though she was anxious to see her friends in Chicago, 
she almost wished she could stay forever in these beau- 
tiful Islands. She dreaded the thought of the cold and 
the snow, of the dark, wet autumn days and the raw 
winds of March. 

They went for their last drive on Punchbowl ; along 
Nuuanu Avenue, past the tiny gardens, surrounded by 



203 

gray stone walls, where the old Hawaiians had once 
raised their crops of taro. 

As Alice looked down upon the city, with its roofs 
among the palms and mango trees, she wondered if she 
should ever see Honolulu again. The thought that this 
might be her last view of the city made her very sad 
indeed. 

Her little friends came to bid her good-by, and 
brought her presents as remembrances. There were 
fans of woven grass, tied with red and blue ribbons ; an 
odd Chinese switch made of horsehair ; and three or 
four queer Chinese dolls, made of wood, dressed in silk 
and tinsel, like little Chinese women. 

When their trunks were packed and the steamer 
rugs and chairs were ready to send to the dock, Alice 
walked about the hotel and remembered how pretty it 
looked the day they arrived, when the vines that cov- 
ered the algaroba trees were in bloom. Now the 
flowers were nearly all gone, but the gray, gnarled 
trees along the avenue were covered with great clusters 
of blossoms that were even brighter than the vines. 

She looked for the last time at the natives, who sat at 
the door of the hotel with their baskets of bouquets and 
heaps of leis, their taro suspended from poles, or their 
stock of beautiful polished walking sticks. These men 
are very humble and do not tease any one to buy. 
They simply hold out their wares to be looked at, and 
if any one buys of them, they are grateful and bow 
and smile with pleasure. 

The ship in which Alice was to sail for home was 
the Australia, It was not quite so large as the Mari- 



204 

7, but it had an upper deck, where Mr. Earle 
thought that it would be very pleasant to sit, when the 
weather was fine, as it usually is on the Pacific. 




Peddling Taro 



A great many people came to bid their friends 
good-by. They brought with them all kinds of leis. 
Some were of tuberoses, others of heliotrope, scarlet 
hibiscus, and bright yellow ohias. With the wreaths of 



205 

flowers were long garlands of the sweet-smelling maile. 
These leis and garlands were placed about the necks 
of those who were leaving, and were even twined around 
their arms and waists. Mrs. Earle and Alice were quite 
covered with them. 

At last the gong sounded and the people bade each 
other good-by. The band on the deck began to play 




Steamship Australia 



" Auld Lang Syne " and many eyes were filled with 
tears. 

Alice and Mrs. Earle stood at the side of the ship 
and waved their handkerchiefs as long as they could 
see the faces of their friends. They saw, for the last 
time, the white surf beating against the reef ; the villas 
along the curved beach at Waikiki ; Punchbowl, and 
the high, bare summit of Diamond Head. 

After they had passed the quarantine station, the 
passengers threw overboard the leis of flowers and 



206 



maile, not because thev did not value them, but be- 
cause that was an old Hawaiian custom. 

And so they sailed away, looking backward toward 
the island until they left far behind them this trail of 
bright blossoms upon the smooth blue water. 




PRONUNCIATION OF HAWAIIAN NAMES 
AND TERMS 

A is sounded as in for ; e as in pr<?y ; i as in mac h me ; o as 
in o\<\ ; u as in r//de ; the diphthong ai like /" in f/ne ; au like 
ou in oul. The consonants have the same sound as in English. 
There are no silent letters. 



ai'na. 


I-o-la'ni. 


ko'a. 


a-lo'ha. 




Ko-ha'la. 


a'wa. 


ka. 


Ko'ko. 




Ka-a-hu-ma'nu. 


Ko'iia. 


Bo'ki. 


Kai-lu'a. 


Ko-o-lau'. 




Kai-u-la'ni. 


ko'u. 


e'a. 


Ka-la-kau'a* 


Ko u'la. 




Ka-lau-pa'pa. 


ku-hi'na nu'i. 


Ha-a-li-li'o. 


Ka-la-wa'o. 


ku-ku'i. 


Ha-le-a-ka-la'. 


Ka-me-ha-me'ha. 




Ha-le-mau-mau'. 


Ka-nu'i. 


La-hai'na. 


Ha-na-pe'pe. 


Ka-pi-o-lani. 


le'i. 


Ha-\vai'i. 


ka'pu. 


Li-ho-li'ho. 


Hi'lo. 


Kau-ai'. 


Li-li'ha. 


ho-lo'ku. 


Kau-i'ke-a-o-u r li. 


Li-li'u-o-ka-h'ni 


Ho-no-li'i. 


Kau'po. 


Lo'no. 


Ho-no-lu'lu. 


.ka'va. 


lu-au'. 


Ho'pu. 


ke. 






ki-hi-ki'hi. 


Ma-hu-ko'na. 


i-a-i'a. 


Ki-lau-e'a. 


ma-i'le. 


I-a'o. 


Ki-nau'. 

207 


Ma-ka-wa'o. 



208 



mau. 


o-he'lo. 


ta'ro. 


Mau'i. 


o-hi'a. 


ti. 


Mau'na Ke'a. 






Mau'na Lo'a. 


Pa'li. 


u'a. 


Mo-lo-kai'. 


Pau-a'hi. 
Pe'le. 


ula. 


Xi-i-hau'. 


po'i. 


Wai-a-le-a'le 


Nu-u-a'nu. 


po'no. 


Wai-ki'ki. 




Pa-na-ho'u. 


Wai-ko'lu. 


O-a'hu. 




Wai-lu'ku. 


O-bo-o-ki'ah. 


ta'pa. 


Wai-me'a. 



TYPOGRAPHY BY J. S. CL'SHING A CO., NORWOOD, MASS., U.S.A. 



MAY 24 1900 



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